Dilated Pores: Is Hyaluronic Acid a Solution?

The pores are the small interstices present on the skin's surface, allowing the flow of sweat and sebum. Usually almost invisible, they can dilate and become apparent, allowing impurities to settle and blemishes to form. This issue primarily affects oily skin, and pore dilation is often due to excessive sebum production, but it can also result from an accumulation of dead cells or the loosening of skin tissues. Indeed, the gradual decrease in collagen production is accompanied by a sagging of the skin structures. The pores then stretch and occupy an increasingly large skin surface.

While AHA's such as glycolic acid and mandelic acid are highly effective in reducing the visibility of pores, no scientific study shows that topical application of hyaluronic acid can act in this way. However, some recent studies have looked into the effects of this molecule when injected. Particularly renowned for their action on wrinkles, hyaluronic acid injections help to stimulate collagen synthesis in the dermis, which also influences pore dilation. Indeed, this firms up the skin structures and ensures the good maintenance of the pore. However, hyaluronic acid cannot act on the two other causes of pore dilation: excessive sebum production and overly rapid cell renewal. Moreover, the effects obtained are temporary and last between 6 and 24 months.

A preliminary study, conducted in 2017 by FAN and his team, involved 42 individuals seeking to reduce the visibility of their pores. Each participant received intra-dermal injections of 2.5 mL (25 mg) of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid across the entire face. This treatment was repeated two to five times with a gap of one to one and a half months between injections. After 6 months, the average improvement in the participants' skin condition was evaluated at 40% using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test, a statistical test. Moreover, skin radiance and pigmentation were better after the treatment than before. No infections or nodules were reported at the injection sites and patients only experienced temporary bruising. The satisfaction of the 42 subjects after 6 months was collected and is detailed in the table below.

In 2021, JURAIRATTANAPORN and his team also explored the effects of hyaluronic acid injections on enlarged pores. They aimed to compare the effectiveness of micro-focused ultrasound alone with that of micro-focused ultrasound combined with injections of cross-linked hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight. Quite popular in aesthetic medicine for skin tightening, micro-focused ultrasound generates a heating of the connective tissues, promoting the synthesis of collagen and elastin and the deposition of new hyaluronic acid fibres. 46 individuals participated in the study, each treated with micro-focused ultrasound across the entire face followed by an injection of 1 mL of hyaluronic acid on one half of the face.

Researchers have observed a significant reduction in pore size for both procedures. If we consider the following graph, it appears slightly more pronounced for micro-focused ultrasound followed by hyaluronic acid injection. However, although error bars are absent from the graph, the authors have indicated that the difference between the two was not significant. Therefore, it is impossible to assert that hyaluronic acid played a role. Regarding patient satisfaction, this was evaluated after 6 months at 6.84 ± 2.86 / 10 for monotherapy and at 7.41 ± 2.84 / 10 for the combined treatment. No side effects were reported, except for temporary bruising in two patients.

At present, we do not have sufficient perspective to attest to the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid injections on enlarged pores, as only one study has highlighted this property.