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Formulation correcteur de teint.

Colour Corrector: What is it formulated from?

The primary function of cosmetic correctors is to help unify the complexion. Depending on their colour, they can neutralise redness, pigmented dark circles, bruises, and so on. In this article, we delve into the composition of complexion correctors to better understand their action.

Summary
Published March 25, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 3 min read

The essential knowledge about colour correctors.

Innovative cosmetic products, colour correctors are variations in various colours (red, green, yellow...) of the traditionally used tinted correctors that camouflage under-eye circles. The purpose of colour correctors is similar: to correct pigmentation imperfections and skin irregularities. They rely on the theory of complementary colours to neutralise shades. These correctors are formulated with specific pigments that help to blur various pigmentation issues in order to create a uniform complexion before the application of makeup.

Colour CorrectorTargeted Imperfection
GreenRedness, post-acne mark, red spot
Peach / orangeVascular dark circles (bluish)
VioletDull to yellowish complexion
YellowPigmentary dark circles (brown), bruising

What active ingredients can we find in a colour corrector?

Complexion correctors are typically formulated from a oil-in-water emulsion and contain various ingredients:

  • Aqueous Solvent : Water (INCI: Aqua (Water)) acts as a solvent in the emulsion, allowing the different ingredients to mix. Botanical hydrosols such as rose water (INCI: Rosa Damascena Flower Water) or chamomile water (INCI: Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water) can be added for their soothing properties.

  • Oil Phase : The oil phase of the complexion corrector is crucial for ensuring its coverage and adherence to the skin. It contains one or more vegetable oil(s) such as jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil) or argan oil (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil).

  • Emulsifiers : Surfactants are added to stabilise the mixture between water and oils, ensuring a uniform distribution of ingredients. They are essential for the stability of the emulsion. Commonly used emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate), PEG-100 stearate (INCI: PEG-100 Stearate), or plant-based emulsifiers such as cetearyl olivate (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate) and sorbitan olivate (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate).

  • Pigments : To provide effective coverage and beautiful colouration, mineral or plant pigments are added to the formulation. These pigments come in the form of a very fine powder, ensuring uniform dispersion: they are said to be micronised. Among the commonly used pigments, we find titanium dioxide (INCI: CI 77891), iron oxide (INCI: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) and carmine (INCI: CI 75470).

  • Thickening Agents : Thickening agents such as xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) or acacia gum (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum) can also be added to adjust the texture of the concealer and give it a creamy and easy-to-apply consistency.

  • Preservatives : Antimicrobial protection agents such as phenoxyethanol (INCI: Phenoxyethanol) or potassium sorbate (INCI: Potassium Sorbate) are included to prevent bacterial growth and ensure product stability throughout its lifespan. Preservatives are preferably added in the aqueous phase, as water is a naturally more conducive environment for the development of fungi, bacteria, moulds...

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