Can squalane be used for the treatment of acne?

Common among teenagers, acne can also affect adults. Indeed, it is estimated that nearly 40% of adults suffer from this skin condition. Acne is primarily caused by the blockage of pores due to an accumulation of sebum or dead cells. It can also occur as a result of an imbalance in bacterial populations, particularly different strains of Cutibacterium acnes. By releasing free fatty acids, these microorganisms exacerbate the inflammation of the sebaceous glands. It should also be noted that stress and poor diet are aggravating factors.

In order to maximise the chances of acne healing, dermatologists typically prescribe a combination of keratolytic, sebostatic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial agents.

A derivative of squalene, a lipid naturally secreted by the skin, squalane is a popular active ingredient in cosmetic formulation. Nourishing and hydrating, its structure closely resembles sebum, giving it an excellent affinity with the skin and allowing it to strengthen the hydrolipidic film, thus limiting the evaporation of water from skin cells and protecting the skin. A friend to dry skin, squalane is also suitable for oily skin as it is non-comedogenic. Despite its skin benefits, squalane does not appear to be able to act on acne as it does not possess any of the key properties mentioned above that effectively combat this dermatosis.

At present, no scientific study has been conducted on the effect of squalane on acne.

However, there remains some doubt about the ability of squalane to reduce skin inflammation. Indeed, in vitro studies have shown that squalene, which differs from squalane due to its double bonds, exerts an immunomodulatory activity on the pro-inflammatory M1 macrophages of skin cells. This effect allows it to increase the release of anti-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukins 4, 10 and 13 (IL-4, IL-10 and IL-13), but also to reduce the activity of inflammation molecules TNF-α and NF-kB. Due to the similarity between the chemical structures of squalene and squalane, it is possible that the latter may have similar properties. However, even if this were the case, squalane would only act on one of the causes of acne. Therefore, it seems unlikely that squalane would be able to alleviate acne.

Good to know : Although squalane does not appear to be able to address acne in its entirety, this active ingredient is widely used to formulate moisturising creams designed to accompany drying acne treatments. Very well tolerated and possessing a strong humectant power, squalane alleviates dryness and improves skin comfort and the quality of life of patients.