Black Seed Oil: What active molecules does it contain?

Black seed oil is primarily composed oflinoleic acid (≈ 56%). This unsaturated fatty acid, belonging to the omega-6 family, is classified as essential because it cannot be synthesised by the body. Yet, it plays a significant role within the epidermis and is involved in the process of ceramide synthesis, the lipids that ensure the cohesion of skin cells in the stratum corneum. Ceramides thus play a crucial role in protecting the skin from external aggressions and dehydration. They result from an amidation reaction between a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. Those carrying linoleic acid are referred to as acylceramides.

Studies have shown that it is crucial for the skin to have an adequate amount of linoleic acid, without which, the epidermal barrier weakens and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases. The skin then becomes drier, rougher and more prone to irritation. The loss of skin hydration also promotes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, making them more visible.

Black seed oil also contains monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, at approximately 24%. Naturally synthesised by the body, this omega-9 is part of the composition of the hydrolipidic film of the skin. This is a watery/oily mixture present on the surface of the epidermis and acts as a shield. The hydrolipidic film indeed allows the skin to remain hydrated and protects it from external aggressions (wind, UV, pollution...). Oleic acid thus has beneficial properties for skin protection, as it helps to strengthen the hydrolipidic film.

The vegetable oil of black seed also contains saturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid, at around 20%, and stearic acid, at 5%. These active ingredients have a film-forming effect on the skin and contribute to the maintenance of the hydrolipidic film. Moreover, these compounds have a structure similar to that of the molecules structuring the horny layer, which allows them to integrate into it and facilitate its restoration. Skincare products containing black seed vegetable oil are thus recommended for dry or atopic skin. They also help the skin to restore its lipid composition after prolonged exposure to the sun or pollution.

Black seed oil contains a small fraction ofacid eicosadienoic (≈ 2%). This is a polyunsaturated fatty acid belonging to the omega-6 family. Less known than linoleic acid, it nevertheless has interesting moisturising properties for skin care. Indeed, it forms a film on the skin's surface, similar to the natural hydrolipidic film, and protects it from pollution and external factors.

The thymoquinone, although present in small quantities in black seed oil (< 1%), is one of its key active ingredients. It possesses numerous properties beneficial for the skin, notably antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Thymoquinone protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals by upregulating the activity of certain antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GPx) and catalase.

Studies have also shown that thymoquinone reduces the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukins 6 and 12 (IL-6 and IL-12) and tumour necrosis factor (TNF-α). These compounds notably play a role in the onset of redness and inflammation of acne spots. The black seed oil helps to reduce these processes and soothe the skin.

Specific molecules to black seed oil, nigelline and nigellone, account for less than 1% of its biochemical composition. They belong respectively to the family of terpenes and quinones. Little studied for their cosmetic properties, nigelline and nigellone are recognised for their digestive virtues and for inhibiting the release of histamine by mast cells, thus helping to reduce allergic symptoms. Black seed oil is indeed frequently recommended for combating allergic rhinitis.

Traces of < 1%) of vitamins A and E can be found in black seed oil. However, their low concentration does not allow us to assert that they can provide real benefits, whether the black seed oil is used in cosmetics or in the culinary field. Nevertheless, as part of a varied and balanced diet and when combined with other vitamin-rich foods, black seed oil is beneficial for health as it improves digestion and supports the immune system.

At Typology, we have incorporated black seed oil into our CBD botanical blend. This treatment is suitable for all skin types, but is particularly adapted for sensitive and fragile skin, prone to redness (redness from hypersensitivity, redness due to the dilation of micro-vessels, and redness due to blemishes). Although they may have different causes, all skin redness share a common factor - skin inflammation.

This night serum soothes the skin and reduces the inflammation that causes various types of redness. It does this by combining the action of six botanical extracts with anti-inflammatory properties: cannabidiol (CBD), calendula oil macerate (Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract), hemp oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), black cumin oil (Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), sesame oil (Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil) and green tea extract (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract).

• HAUSER M. & al. In vivo investigations on the penetration of various oils and their influence on the skin barrier. Skin Research and Technology (2012).

• AL-FARGA A. & al. A Narrative Review on Various Oil Extraction Methods, Encapsulation Processes, Fatty Acid Profiles, Oxidative Stability, and Medicinal Properties of Black Seed ( Nigella sativa). Foods (2022).