Beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid are among the most sought-after moisturising actives in cosmetics. But are their mechanisms of action similar? And is their efficacy comparable? Let’s explore how these two ingredients support the skin’s hydration.
Beta-glucan versus hyaluronic acid, two highly hydrating molecules.
Summary
Published on October 28, 2025, updated on October 28, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 9 min of reading
Themes:
The key points to remember.
Beta-glucan is a natural polysaccharide that helps to restore the skin barrier and reduce water loss through its action on epidermal differentiation and lipid synthesis.
Hyaluronic acid is capable of retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Depending on its molecular weight, it acts on the surface to limit water evaporation or penetrates more deeply to hydrate the skin’s inner layers.
Although there are no studies directly comparing the two actives, both are highly hydrating and well tolerated, with more research available on hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid and beta-glucan can be combined to optimise skin hydration.
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Focusing on the hydrating benefits of beta-glucan.
Beta-glucan is a natural polysaccharide derived from the cell walls of certain plants, such as oats and barley, from fungi, or from yeasts. This high-molecular-weight polymer, composed of glucose units linked by β linkages, forms structures capable of retaining water at the surface of the skin. In cosmetics, beta-glucan is therefore widely used in moisturising, soothing and reparative skincare.
Its primary benefit lies in its ability to strengthen and protect the skin barrier. By acting as a humectant, beta-glucan attracts and retains water in the stratum corneum, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and maintain optimal hydration levels. Unlike certain moisturisers that act solely on the surface, beta-glucan possesses a fibrous structure that allows it to form a continuous film while supporting the gradual restoration of the skin barrier.
Several studies have highlighted the active role of beta-glucan in skin repair. Recent research has shown that oat-derived beta-glucan stimulates the Dectin-1 signalling pathway, essential for epidermal cohesion. This activation increases the expression of structural proteins such as filaggrin, loricrin and claudin-1, indispensable for the integrity of the skin barrier. Meanwhile, beta-glucan promotes keratinocyte differentiation by modulating the ERK/p38 MAPK pathway and activating calcium-sensing receptors (CaSR)—key mechanisms for strengthening intercellular junctions. Finally, by activating the nuclear receptor PPAR-γ, beta-glucan supports epidermal lipid synthesis, thereby improving the skin’s water retention.
Beta-glucan thus acts in various ways to maintain the skin’s hydration.
The hydrating and restorative efficacy of beta-glucan was confirmed by a clinical study involving 20 patients with atrophic acne scars treated with CO2. For 14 days, patients applied a beta-glucan formulation (concentration unspecified) to one half of the face, while the other side received the same cream without beta-glucan. The measured parameters, including hydration and transepidermal water loss, allowed assessment of skin recovery following the laser treatment. The results show that by the seventh day, the skin treated with beta-glucan exhibited a significantly increased hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss compared with the control side. Moreover, the haemoglobin index, an indicator of inflammation, improved more quickly, demonstrating enhanced skin repair.
63.2%
Participants judged the hydrating and reparative effect of the beta-glucan treatment to be superior to that of the neutral vehicle.
How does hyaluronic acid hydrate the skin?
The hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule in the skin, predominantly located in the dermis, where, together with collagen and elastin, it forms the structural framework of the connective tissue. This extracellular matrix forms a viscoelastic gel rich in glycosaminoglycans, capable of retaining and distributing water, guaranteeing the skin’s suppleness and turgor. Long considered confined to the dermis, hyaluronic acid has also been identified in the epidermis, where it contributes to bind water molecules and reinforce the hydrolipidic film which prevents their evaporation.
The unique property of hyaluronic acid lies in its strong hygroscopic power: it can attract and retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This exceptional capacity makes it a major humectant for the skin. In cosmetics, it is used to reinforce the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis and to maintain a cutaneous environment conducive to cellular functions. Its properties vary with molecular weight. At high molecular weight (1,000 to 1,400 kDa), hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin surface that limits insensible water loss. At low molecular weight (20 to 300 kDa), it penetrates more deeply into the epidermal layers, where it binds water that has diffused from the dermis.
The hyaluronic acid is one of the most extensively studied moisturising actives.
| Study | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|
| PAVICIC & al. (2011) | Twice-daily application of a 0.1% hyaluronic acid cream (50, 130, 300, 800 or 2000 kDa) by 76 volunteers | An average increase in hydration of 10% after 60 days |
| VEGA & al. (2016) | Twice-daily application of a hyaluronic acid serum by 24 volunteers | A 13% increase in hydration measured using a corneometer after eight weeks |
| BOYD & al. (2021) | Twice‐daily application of a hyaluronic acid serum by 40 volunteers | Increase in hydration as measured using a corneometer: 35% after 2 weeks, 46% after 4 weeks and 63% after 6 weeks. |
| GIANNINI & al. (2022) | Twice-daily application of a hyaluronic acid serum by 46 volunteers | An 11% increase in hydration after 8 weeks |
Results from several clinical studies on the hydrating properties of hyaluronic acid.
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Beta-glucan or hyaluronic acid: which active ingredient should you choose to hydrate the skin?
To date, no direct comparative clinical study has evaluated the effects of beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid on skin hydration.
The two molecules are known for their humectant and reparative properties, although the scientific literature is more extensive regarding hyaluronic acid, studied for several decades for its role in regulating the hydration of the stratum corneum and restoring dermal volume. Beta-glucan, for its part, is of growing interest in dermatology and cosmetics for its soothing, hydrating and barrier-protective properties, notably through its effect on lipid synthesis. Moreover, both actives are very well tolerated and are suitable for sensitive skin.
Rather than pitting them against each other, these two active ingredients can be combined to optimise skin hydration and repair. Hyaluronic acid primarily acts as a water reservoir within the epidermal and dermal layers, while beta-glucan strengthens the barrier function and soothes inflammatory responses. This synergy was demonstrated in a recent study focused on the development of a beta-1,3-glucan and hyaluronic acid composite. The resulting biomaterial exhibited excellent biocompatibility, promoted cell migration and enhanced wound healing, all while retaining potent antibacterial activity.
These results indicate that the combination of beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid not only enhances skin hydration but also promotes tissue regeneration. However, caution is necessary as this study was conducted in vitro. Clinical trials on the benefits of combining hyaluronic acid and beta-glucan are still required to confirm their synergistic effect.
Sources
PAVICIC T. & al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).
VEGA L. & al. Rejuvenating hydrator: Restoring epidermal hyaluronic acid homeostasis with instant benefits. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2016).
RICHTER J. & al. Beta-glucan: Supplement or drug? From laboratory to clinical trials. Molecules (2019).
CAO Y. & al. Administration of skin care regimens containing β-glucan for skin recovery after fractional laser therapy: A split-face, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).
BOYD T. & al. Efficacy evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum in facial photoaging. Dermatology & Therapy (2021).
KEROB D. & al. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatologic Therapy (2022).
GIANNINI A. & al. Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2022).
SINGH G. & al. Beta-glucan as a soluble dietary fiber source: Origins, biosynthesis, extraction, purification, structural characteristics, bioavailability, biofunctional attributes, industrial utilization, and global trade. Nutrients (2024).
