Ashitaba: what are the benefits of this Japanese plant for the skin?

Due to its composition, Ashitaba has interesting benefits for the skin. It is believed to slow down the ageing of skin cells. Indeed, it contains a flavonoid, the 4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (DMC) which triggersautophagy, a cellular process established to prevent the accumulation of waste in the body and eliminate dysfunctional cells. This process would help to maintain cellular homeostasis, reduce skin hyperpigmentation, and combat premature skin ageing. Autophagy is a process that can become deregulated with advancing age.

The DMC would also facilitate the removal of dead cells that hinder skin renewal. Indirectly, the DMC would stimulate the regeneration of skin cells to slow down skin ageing. Thanks to the action of this molecule, the elasticity and texture of the skin are preserved, even though its mechanism of action on autophagy and cell renewal is not known.

Ashitaba also containsantioxidant compounds, notably 2,2′-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS), which havefree radical scavengingactivities. This property may be due to the presence of flavones that transfer a hydrogen atom to free radicals to produce a stable substance. Thus, Ashitaba contributes to the protection of the skin against various environmental factors and combats the signs of skin ageing.

The sap extracted from its stems is rich in chalcones. Studies have suggested that some of these could inhibit microbial proliferation . Indeed, an extract from the Ashitaba root has been shown to inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, a Gram-positive bacterium responsible for skin infections. An analysis identified that two chalcones possessed such properties: the xanthoangelol and the 4-hydroxyderricine.

Studies have suggested that certain chalcones found in the sap extracted from the stems of the Ashitaba plant may possess anti-inflammatory activities. They have tested the inhibitory activity of several compounds against protein tyrosine phosphatase 1B (PTP1B), a protein that can be involved in an inflammatory process and is activated by inflammatory factors, such as TNF-α.

Among these compounds, six chalcones, namely xanthoangelol K, xanthoangelol, xanthoangelol F, 4-hydroxyderricin, xanthoangelol D, xanthoangelol E, methoxsalen and a coumarin, have demonstrated a strong inhibitory effect on PTP1B. Thus, Ashitaba extract could potentially soothe any inflammation caused by lesions, such as warts, or skin diseases.

Thanks to its benefits in slowing down skin ageing, Ashitaba is among the ingredients used in cosmetological care. Indeed, you will find it in daily use treatments intended to prevent signs of ageing. To this end, we have developed the antioxidant serum enriched with 3% of ferulic acid and Ashitaba extract (INCI: Angelica Keiskei Extract).

Theferulic acid enhances the resistance of cells against free radicals, thereby delaying skin ageing. Ashitaba extract promotes cellular renewal and helps to delay the appearance of signs of ageing, such as wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of elasticity.

By incorporating it into the list of treatments you apply daily to your skin, this serum helps to neutralise the effects of free radicals. It thus increases the "longevity" of skin cells in order to slow down their premature ageing. Composed oftrue lavender essential oil (INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia Oil), this serum is however not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women.

• LI J. & al. PTP1B inhibitors from stems of Angelica keiskei (Ashitaba). Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters (2015).

• CATARINO M. D. & al. Antioxidant Capacities of Flavones and Benefits in Oxidative-Stress Related Diseases. Current Topics in Medicinal Chemistry (2015).

• CAESAR L. K. & al. A Review of the medicinal uses and pharmacology of Ashitaba. Planta Medica (2016).

• CAESAR L. K. & al. An integrated approach for assessing antimicrobial constituents from Angelica keiskei Koidzumi. Planta Medica (2016).

• MADEO F. & al. The flavonoid 4,4′-dimethoxychalcone promotes autophagy-dependent longevity across species. Nature Communications (2019).