Everything you need to know about aloe vera.

Aloe vera has been cultivated and used for over 5,000 years by various major civilisations, particularly in the context of cosmetic use. Traditional ancient Chinese and Ayurvedic medicines, followed by Greek, Egyptian and African, have from their origins utilised this plant to heal and protect the skin. According to historians, Aristotle persuaded Alexander the Great to conquer the island of Socotra in Africa with the aim of gathering sufficient quantities of aloe vera as a healing agent for his soldiers. It is even said that Cleopatra secretly used aloe vera juice in her beauty bath.

Belonging to the Liliaceae family, aloe vera or Aloe barbadensis has spiky leaves with a tough appearance. These leaves contain a transparent gelatinous pulp, which is edible once the aloin-rich latex surrounding it is removed. The pressure exerted on this pulp produces the famous aloe vera gel, rich in polysaccharides, vitamins, trace elements, enzymes and amino acids. In cosmetics, aloe vera gel is an excellent multifunctional active ingredient known for its moisturising, repairing and soothing properties.

The leaves of aloe vera contain two main substances: the latex, also referred to as the sap, and the gel :

• The sap primarily contains aloin molecules, a substance recognised for its digestive properties by Western medicine of the time. However, when used topically, aloin can cause allergic reactions and may lead to contact dermatitis. Therefore, aloe vera latex is not used in cosmetic products.

• The gel, on the other hand, is approved for cosmetic use. It contains numerous chemical substances, over 200, thus making it challenging to determine its exact composition. This composition is dependent on the plant's living environment. It is composed of 98.5 to 99.5% water with a pH ranging between 4 and 5, and 1.5% to 0.5% solid matter. This solid fraction contains various substances, such as saccharides, glycoproteins, and low molecular weight chemical species (amino acids, lipids, vitamins, etc...). The benefits of aloe vera gel for the skin and hair are partly attributed to polysaccharides, but the hypothesis that these biological activities are due to a synergistic action of the numerous compounds is also supported.

Firstly, fresh leaves are harvested and manually cut. They are then thoroughly cleaned to remove all latex, before being passed through an extractor specifically designed to extract the fresh pulp through simple mechanical pressure. The fresh pulp collected is then immediately stabilised by homogenising it with certain substances that neutralise the action of enzymes (responsible for the rapid oxidation of the gel when exposed to air) without destroying them. Thus, they are still present in the gel and it retains its benefits. Once harvested and stabilised in this way, the fresh aloe vera pulp is perfectly preserved and can then be incorporated on demand, without any problem, into specialised products, which are, more often than not, further stabilised for greater safety and effectiveness.

When applied topically, aloe vera possesses several virtues:

• Moisturiser: Aloe vera gel behaves like a humectant, meaning it retains water in the superficial layers of the skin. This characteristic is linked to its biochemical composition, rich in hygroscopic species and amino acids (histidine, serine, arginine, threonine, glycine), which enhance water retention in the epidermis.

• Soothing: Aloe vera is an excellent ally for calming skin redness associated with overexposure to the sun. It also provides relief for skin prone to itching and various types of irritation.

• Tensor: Aloe vera gel, both in topical application and ingestion, effectively combats the signs of skin ageing. Researchers attribute this property to the presence of acemannan in the gel, a molecule capable of stimulating collagen production.

Aloe vera is also included in the composition of many hair care products due to the properties described below:

• It hydrates and strengthens the hair fibre.

  Comprised predominantly of water and hygroscopic substances, the moisturising action of aloe vera gel keeps the hair hydrated, thereby preventing the onset of split ends.

• It purifies the scalp.

  Thanks to its soothing action, it relieves irritations and itchiness, and purifies the scalp.

We have developed several galenic formulations containing this multifunctional active ingredient:

• The hydrating gel with aloe vera and orange blossomsoothes the skin and deeply hydrates it. It provides a cooling effect to the face and body, ideal for calming the skin after sun exposure.

• The hydrating toner based on hyaluronic acid and aloe vera is concentrated with active ingredients to regulate the skin's pH, hydrate and soothe it. It is used morning and evening, during one's beauty routine.

• The exfoliating cleansing gel with 5% PHA and aloe vera provides a gradual micro-exfoliation of the skin to unclog pores, smooth the skin texture and reveal a radiant and even complexion.

• The face sunscreen cream with an SPF30 prevents photoaging due to the combination of mineral and organic filters offering broad-spectrum UVA UVB protection.

• The tinted serum provides light coverage. It is enriched with vitamin C for skin radiance, and with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid for deep skin hydration.

• The purifying toner based on salicylic acid is concentrated with anti-bacterial agents against spots and blemishes.

• CAMPOS M. & al. Evaluating the hydrating impact of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in varying concentrations using skin bioengineering methods. Skin Research and Technology (2006).

• HAMMAN J. H. Composition and uses of aloe vera leaf gel. Molecules (2008).

• CHUNG J. H. & others. Dietary Aloe Vera supplementation enhances facial wrinkles and elasticity, and it elevates the expression of the type I procollagen gene in human skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology (2009).

• LOIS C. & co. Formulation of Aloe Juice (Aloe vera (L) Burm.f.) Sheet Mask as Anti-Ageing. Pharmaceutical Technology (2016).