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Dangers utilisation cutanée beurre de karité.

Are there any risks associated with the use of shea butter in cosmetics?

Native to West Africa, the shea butter is a plant-based fat extracted from the kernel of the seeds of the tree Vitellaria paradoxa. Often used in its raw form, it is also incorporated into a wide range of skin and hair care products, notably for its anti-inflammatory and emollient properties. Despite its popularity, shea butter, like any cosmetic ingredient, may potentially cause adverse effects in certain individuals. This is what we will address in this article.

Published on January 11, 2023, updated on February 9, 2026, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 10 min of reading

Could the topical application of shea butter pose any risks?

Rich in various fatty acids, vitamins, phytosterols and antioxidants beneficial to the skin, the shea butter has long been recognised for its emollient and soothing properties. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) and current data indicate that shea butter is well tolerated and safe for topical use by most people, on intact or compromised skin. In the European Union, it is not subject to any usage restrictions under the applicable cosmetics regulation.

Furthermore, a Nigerian pilot study of patch tests (n = 25), together with a field survey (n = 500), was conducted to evaluate shea butter’s skin tolerance. Its application provoked neither irritation nor sensitisation in the skin irritation or sensitisation tests among the 25 volunteers, even at high shea butter concentrations (45 % and 75 %). Self-reported data from the field survey likewise revealed no adverse skin effects, even after 12 years of continuous use.

Moreover, clinical studies using shea butter as an emollient, either alone or in combination with other ingredients, on skin conditions (e.g. atopic dermatitis) have reported no adverse events or side effects during the periods of use, even in sensitive populations such as children and patients with arthritis.

Data relating to long-term safety, particularly in cases of chronic or high-dose use, however, remain limited.

However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, some individuals may experience cutaneous reactions to this natural ingredient. These isolated reactions may present as mild redness, itching, swelling or hives. If you experience these adverse effects following the use of shea butter, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist for personalised advice and recommendations tailored to your skin’s needs.

The shea butter is renowned for its rich, creamy texture, which can seem overly occlusive for certain skin types, especially oily or blemish-prone skin. Most websites claim that shea butter has a low comedogenic rating, but the source of this statement is unclear as there are no studies to support it.

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What about the latex that may be found in shea butter?

Raw (unrefined) shea butter contains an allergenic agent: latex. Certain plants release it when wounded. It is used as a defence mechanism against insects. However, this milky substance naturally produced by the shea tree can cause adverse effects in individuals with skin allergies. Effects may vary depending on the degree of tolerance, the amount applied and the duration of application. Latex intolerance often presents as irritation of the skin and mucous membranes, resulting in the appearance of redness, swelling or itching. In cases of severe intolerance, topical use of a product containing latex can lead to irritant contact dermatitis.

Chez Typology, nous utilisons du beurre de karité raffiné, soit exempt de latex.

And for pregnant and breastfeeding women, as well as children, is shea butter safe for topical application?

Limited data suggest it is well tolerated in children aged 2 to 18 years. Indeed, a Thai randomised controlled trial has been identified, evaluating the efficacy of an emollient containing shea butter and ceramides compared with 1% hydrocortisone in children with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis, aged 2 to 18 years (n = 26). The shea butter and ceramide cream caused no adverse effects after twice-daily application for 8 weeks.

Paediatric safety data are confined to a single short-term trial in children with atopic dermatitis, with no data available for those under two years of age or for long-term use in healthy children.

However, no study has evaluated its safety during pregnancy and lactation, thus leaving the question of safety in these populations unanswered. Nonetheless, shea butter is considered a safe cosmetic ingredient for these sensitive populations by the expert committee.

The shea olein present in our Nourishing Moisturizer L42 has also been determined to be safe for cosmetic use.

What precautions should be taken when using shea butter?

Although shea butter is recognised as safe and well tolerated for topical application, certain usage precautions can help minimise the risk of adverse reactions.

Carry out a skin patch test before first use.

As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable tocarry out a patch test before applying shea butter to larger areas of the skin, particularly in individuals with reactive skin or on sensitive areas such as the lips or around the eyes. This procedure allows for the detection of any individual cutaneous reaction, however rare. To perform it, apply a small amount of the product to the inside of the wrist, the crease of the elbow or behind the ear, then leave the area unwashed for 24 to 48 hours. In the absence of any reaction (redness, itching, swelling, etc.), broader use may be considered.

Ensure optimal preservation of shea butter.

Raw shea butter requires appropriate storage conditions to preserve its properties and prevent contamination. As a natural product rich in fatty acids, it is particularly vulnerable to two degradation mechanisms that can impair its quality and increase the risk of adverse skin reactions.

  • The microbiological contamination can occur when unrefined shea butter is exposed to moisture. Although fats contain little water, any introduction of moisture favours the proliferation of bacteria, yeasts or moulds. Some of these yeasts and moulds produce enzymes capable of hydrolysing lipids, resulting in an increased acid value and the progressive degradation of the butter. Contaminated shea butter may then cause irritation or even skin infections, particularly when applied to damaged skin or to highly sensitive areas such as the lips or around the eyes.

  • The oxidative rancidity, in turn, results from prolonged exposure to air, light or heat. The oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids leads to the formation of peroxides, which can generate volatile secondary compounds such as aldehydes and ketones once a certain critical threshold is reached, and are responsible for the characteristic rancid odour. Beyond sensory alteration, these compounds can reduce the cosmetic efficacy of shea butter and increase its potential to irritate the skin.

In order to minimise these risks and extend the shelf-life of this plant-derived fat, it is recommended to store shea butter in an airtight container, protected from light, heat and moisture, in a cool, dry place. The use of clean, dry hands or a sterile utensil for sampling is also essential to prevent any contamination. Finally, any significant change (rancid odour, altered colour, abnormal granular texture) should prompt the immediate cessation of use, these signs indicate degradation that may provoke cutaneous reactions.

Sources

FAQ about are there any risks associated with the use of shea butter in cosmetics?

Does so-called "refined" shea butter pose any risks when applied topically?

The shea butter can be used raw or refined. Raw, it is unprocessed, yellow in colour and has a fairly strong odour. Refined, by contrast, it undergoes a process designed to remove its natural scent and make its colour whiter. Refining involves vacuum distillation of free fatty acids and deodorisation. This process does not alter the properties and benefits of shea butter. Moreover, refined shea butter generally has a better tolerance profile, particularly due to the removal of certain potentially irritating or allergenic compounds, such as latex residues.

Is shea butter photosensitising?

No, the shea butter is not photosensitising. Some studies have even shown that it has a low photoprotective capacity, with a sun protection factor estimated at around SPF 3. This protection, however, remains largely insufficient to prevent UV-induced damage on its own. Shea butter therefore cannot in any way replace a sunscreen.

Can we apply shea butter to the skin around the eyes?

There is no contraindication to the use of shea butter on the skin around the eye contour. However, this area is particularly thin and sensitive, so individual intolerance reactions may still occur, especially when using raw or poorly preserved shea butter. It is therefore recommended to favour products specifically formulated for the eye contour, containing refined shea butter and ophthalmologically tested, and to carry out a patch test before any direct application.

Does using shea butter on hair pose any risk?

The use of shea butter on hair poses no known hazard. Studies have shown that lipid-rich oils can reduce friction, minimise breakage and enhance the mechanical strength of hair by forming a protective film on the fibre’s surface. However, if applied in excessive amounts, raw shea butter can weigh down fine hair. For this reason, it is generally preferable to choose hair care products formulated with shea butter at suitable concentrations.

Is it possible to apply shea butter to the lips?

Shea butter is commonly used on the lips and is generally considered to be well tolerated. However, rare cases of contact cheilitis have been reported in the scientific literature. Two case reports, in particular, described inflammatory reactions of the lips associated with the use of cosmetic products containing, among other ingredients, shea butter, which were confirmed by positive patch tests. Although these cases remain exceptional, they highlight the potential for a contact allergy in certain individuals. In the event of burning sensations, persistent redness or lip flaking, it is recommended to discontinue use of the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Can shea butter be used safely to relieve irritation of the mucous membranes in intimate areas?

Although it has emollient properties that may help to relieve external skin dryness, its application to mucous membranes has not been specifically evaluated in clinical studies. In the absence of data, it is preferable to favour products formulated and tested specifically for intimate hygiene.

Is it dangerous to use shea butter to clear a blocked nose?

In some traditional practices, shea butter is used intranasally to relieve nasal congestion. The available studies indicate that it has not been associated with any adverse effects, common complaints or side effects during the observation periods. It appears to have a favourable safety profile compared with certain conventional nasal decongestants (xylometazoline and cetirizine), which can sometimes cause dryness or irritation. However, these data remain limited and pertain to short-term studies. Repeated intranasal application of oil-based formulations carries theoretical risks (irritation, mucosal disruption) and cannot be recommended systematically.

Can I use shea butter if I have a nut allergy?

Allergic reactions to vegetable oils and butters are associated with the presence of residual allergenic proteins, derived from the seeds or oil-rich fruits from which they are extracted. A 1997 study showed that 100 g of crude shea butter would contain very low amounts of protein (approximately 0.042 %). To date, no documented case of a cutaneous allergic reaction to shea butter in individuals with tree nut allergies has been clearly established. Nevertheless, a low theoretical risk cannot be entirely ruled out. As a precaution, individuals with tree nut allergies are advised to seek medical advice before use and to carry out a patch test on a small area of skin in advance.

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