Is Shea Butter Comedogenic?

Shea butter is a natural fat derived from the fruit of the shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii), which belongs to the Sapotaceae family. This wild African tree begins to produce fruit after 20 years and reaches its maximum production capacity after 50 years. Shea butter is primarily made by African women. It is even nicknamed the "women's gold", providing an additional source of income for millions of women in certain African countries such as Burkina Faso.

In its raw state, the shea butter presents itself in the form of a waxy-looking solid butter. When exposed to room temperature, it melts and its texture becomes oily. Shea butter is light yellow to beige in colour and it emits a slight sweet almond scent. It is concentrated in fatty acids, triglycerides and wax esters. It also contains vitamins (E, A, D), and phytosterols.

Utilised in dermatological and cosmetic care, shea butter is known as (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter). It is an emollient that softens the upper layer of the skin. It is also valued for its nourishing and moisturising properties. It repairs and protects the skin barrier. Furthermore, shea butter has the ability to maintain a tanned complexion after sun exposure. In addition, it also has a functional role in certain cosmetic formulas as it helps to increase viscosity.

It should be noted that,the shea butter used in our products is sourced from these fruits harvested in Burkina Faso. The refining process is then carried out in Europe, following methods approved by organic certifications.

The term "comedogenic" originates from the word "comedones" and refers to the ability of a cosmetic ingredient or product to block the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. By clogging the skin's pores, a comedogenic compound will prevent the natural expulsion of sebum. This phenomenon can then trigger or exacerbate various skin disorders, such as dilated pores, open microcysts (or blackheads), closed microcysts (or whiteheads) or even acne.

The comedogenicity of a compound is assessed on ascale of 0 to 5. A score of 0 means that no comedones have developed, hence the pores are not blocked, while a score of 5 indicates a high probability that it will cause comedones. To calculate this index, manufacturers determine, among other things, therate of penetrationof the compound in question into the superficial layers of the skin and itssensitivity to oxidation.

The comedogenicity index of a vegetable oil compound therefore depends on itsoxidative potential, knowing that an oxidised oil compound will naturally be comedogenic (hence the importance of paying attention to the preservation of this type of ingredient: keep the bottle closed, away from light and heat).

No, shea butter is not comedogenic. It is listed among the ingredients that have a comedogenicity index of 0.

Consequently, this active ingredient can be incorporated into treatments intended for oily skin, acne-prone skin, as well as combination skin. It does not promote the appearance of acne spots or blackheads.

• DiNARDO J. C. & co. A reassessment of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).