Collagen is a protein naturally produced by the body, particularly known for its ability to strengthen the skin's structure. Collagen is also present in the nail bed and contributes to their health. What about collagen-based products? Let's discuss their potential benefits.
Are collagen-based products beneficial for nails?
Published on May 17, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
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Collagen, a beneficial ingredient for nails?
The collagen is a structural protein found in the body in a fibrillar form. It is notably a part of muscles, skin, bones, cartilage and the walls of blood vessels. Although collagen is not found in nails, this molecule is present in the surrounding skin tissues, including those of the nail bed, the area of skin located under the nail plate. This is also where the blood vessels supplying the oxygen and essential nutrients for the growth of nails are located. Over time, the production of collagen decreases, which weakens the periungual skin structures as well as the nails themselves. An external supply of collagen could therefore prove interesting to compensate for this loss.
To date, no study has examined the effects of topical collagen application on nails.
Nevertheless, it can be hypothesised that certain properties of collagen demonstrated in skin application could be transposed for nails. Its moisturising virtues could notably benefit the nails. Indeed, collagen is a hygroscopic molecule, meaning it has the ability to attract and retain water molecules. It can be assumed that this property would benefit the nails, which, by staying hydrated, would be less prone to breakage and appear more shiny. Furthermore, some studies have shown that hydrolysed collagen has an antioxidant effect, dependent on its size: the lower the molecular weight of the peptides, the better their ability to donate an electron. As nails are not immune to oxidative stress, the anti-radical properties of collagen could help protect their cuticle and prevent their splitting.
More research has been conducted on the effects of orally ingested collagen on nail health. In 2017, OESSER and his team studied the benefits of a daily supplementation of 2.5 grams of collagen peptides (molecular weight ≈ 2 kDa) on 25 women. After six months, the researchers observed a 12% increase in nail growth rate and a 42% decrease in the frequency of nail chipping. Furthermore, 80% of the participants acknowledged that collagen supplementation had improved the appearance of their nails and expressed satisfaction with the treatment.
Another double-blind study involving 54 women with issues of nail splitting and fragility examined the effects of supplementation with collagen, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. The results obtained for the participants who received the active ingredients and those who took the placebo are summarised below.
| Evaluated Criteria | After 3 weeks | After 4 weeks | After 6 weeks | After 8 weeks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nail Fissuring | Improvement of 43.3% for the "Active" group and 47.8% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 62.7% for the "Active" group and 58% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 76.1% for the "Active" group and 56.5% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 79.1% for the "Active" group and 62.3% for the "Placebo" group |
| Nail Fragility | Improvement of 43.4% for the "Active" group and 31.5% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 65.1% for the "Active" group and 46.6% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 80.7% for the "Active" group and 64.4% for the "Placebo" group | An improvement of 80.7% for the "Active" group and 68.5% for the "Placebo" group |
| Nail Softness | Improvement of 18.5% for the "Active" group and 5.6% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 23.5% for the "Active" group and 11.1% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 35.8% for the "Active" group and 25% for the "Placebo" group | Improvement of 43.2% for the "Active" group and 23.6% for the "Placebo" group |
The study results indicate a more pronounced improvement for the group that received collagen and other active ingredients. However, it is noteworthy that those who received the placebo also reported a significant enhancement of their nails, even though they were not taking any active substances. This raises questions about the actual effects of oral collagen intake. The improvement in the nail condition of the individuals in the "Active" group could also be due to a placebo effect, and the fact that it is slightly more significant is not a sufficient factor, especially considering the small sample size of participants (only 54). More research is now needed to definitively state that collagen supplementation is beneficial for nails.
Sources
BERKER D. Nail Anatomy. Clinics in Dermatology (2013).
GANS E. H. & co. A Nutritional Supplement Composed of Peptides, Lipids, Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Enhances Key Elements of Physical Appearance in Nails, Hair and Skin. Journal of Nutrition and Food Sciences (2014).
OESSER S. & al. Oral supplementation with specific bioactive collagen peptides enhances nail growth and alleviates symptoms of brittle nails. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).
AHUIRRE-ÁLVAREZ G. & others. Collagen hydrolysates for skin protection: oral administration and topical formulation. Antioxidants (2020).
