Phthalates are chemical substances derived from phthalic acid. In cosmetics, they are typically used as fixative and film-forming agents. In hair care products, they make the fibre more flexible, lighter and shinier. Subject to controversy, they are accused of being allergenic, even toxic, and are implicated as endocrine disruptors. The European Union has banned most of these compounds in cosmetic formulas. The only one still allowed is the dimethyl phthalate (INCI: Dimethyl phthalate - DPE). A focus on these chemical compounds that are widely subject to controversy.