Please enable JavaScript
Actifs anti-pelliculaires

Which active ingredients can counteract dandruff?

Dandruff affects a large proportion of the adult population and manifests as visible flakes on the scalp. Its origin is multifactorial, involving both an overgrowth of the fungus Malassezia, excess sebum and skin sensitivity. In response to this imbalance, certain active ingredients are particularly effective at restoring scalp equilibrium. Let us explore which ones to favour for the sustained reduction of dandruff.

Published on September 2, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 15 min of reading
Themes:

Ciclopirox olamine, a versatile antifungal agent against dandruff.

Among the anti-dandruff agents frequently used, one finds ciclopirox olamine. It is an antifungal from the family of hydroxypyridones, whose efficacy relies on its ability to disrupt microbial metabolism. Thanks to its cyclic chemical structure, ciclopirox olamine can bind to certain metal ions, such as iron, which are essential to the activity of numerous fungal enzymes involved in mitochondrial respiration, thereby reducing yeast viability. Ciclopirox olamine exhibits a broad-spectrum antifungal activity, notably against fungi Malassezia.

Ciclopirox olamine also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties that enhance its usefulness in cases of dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis. By modulating certain enzymes in the inflammatory cascade, such as cyclooxygenase and 5-lipoxygenase, it reduces the production of pro-inflammatory mediators like prostaglandins and leukotrienes. This lessens redness, itching and irritation associated with dandruff while also reducing the risk of recurrence. The ciclopirox olamine is a generally well-tolerated active ingredient that can act through various mechanisms to reduce dandruff and has been the subject of numerous studies.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
ROSENMAN & al. (2000)82 individuals with seborrhoeic dermatitis.Application twice weekly for 4 weeks of a shampoo containing 1% ciclopirox olamine or a placebo.Resolution or significant improvement occurred in 93% of participants in the control group compared with 41% in the placebo group.
GOODE & al. (2002)154 individuals with dandruff, of whom 70 had seborrhoeic dermatitis.Apply a shampoo containing 1.5% ciclopirox olamine and 3% salicylic acid, or a shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole, three times per week for four weeks.There was a 22% reduction in dandruff and a 62.5% reduction in the area of seborrhoeic dermatitis with ciclopirox olamine and salicylic acid shampoo, compared with a 26% reduction in dandruff and an 80.5% reduction in the area of seborrhoeic dermatitis with ketoconazole shampoo.
CHO & al. (2003)57 subjects with dandruff.Apply a shampoo containing 1.5% ciclopirox olamine or 2% ketoconazole three times per week for four weeks.An 87.5% reduction in dandruff was achieved with the ciclopirox olamine shampoo, compared with 88.9% with the ketoconazole shampoo.
The effects of ciclopirox olamine on dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Piroctone olamine, a gentle anti-dandruff active ingredient.

Another option for dandruff: the piroctone olamine, a particularly potent antifungal agent against Malassezia. Its mechanism of action is based on a direct interaction with fungal metabolism. Piroctone olamine is able to cross the yeast membrane and bind intracellular iron ions, which it chelates into stable complexes. This iron deprivation, essential for mitochondrial enzymes, disrupts cellular respiration and compromises the fungus’s survival. At the same time, piroctone olamine helps limit sebum secretion, on which Malassezia depends to survive. Thus, beyond its antifungal role, piroctone olamine contributes to restoring a healthier skin environment.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
SHARIFI-RAD & al. (2015)30 subjects with dandruff.Use a shampoo containing plant extracts, 1% piroctone olamine and zinc PCA three times per week for two months, for five weeks.Complete elimination of dandruff in 15 patients by the second week, in 12 after four weeks, and in 3 by the end of the fifth week.
ZIANE & al. (2016)41 individuals with dandruff.12-week study divided into three phases: (1) three applications per week of a neutral shampoo during the first two weeks; (2) three applications per week of an anti-dandruff shampoo (identical formula to the neutral shampoo but containing 0.5% piroctone olamine) during the following four weeks; (3) three applications per week of a neutral shampoo during the remaining six weeks.A reduction in scaling, itching, greasiness and redness was observed over the four-week treatment period.
The effects of piroctone olamine on dandruff.

You can find piroctone olamine in our anti-dandruff shampoo.

Zinc pyrithione, effective against dandruff but banned in the European Union.

The zinc pyrithione has long been regarded as an essential active ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos. Its efficacy relies on a dual action : on the one hand, an antifungal activity targeting the yeasts Malassezia by disrupting the membrane transport of essential ions, which blocks their growth and energy metabolism; on the other hand, a mild antibacterial and keratolytic activity that limits microbial proliferation and reduces excessive scalp flaking.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
WALKER & al. (1985)32 subjects with dandruffUse twice weekly for four weeks of a shampoo containing 1% zinc pyrithione or a placebo.Significant reduction in dandruff.
PARK & al. (2009)30 subjects with dandruff.Use of a shampoo containing 1% zinc pyrithione or a placebo for 4 weeks.Significant reduction in sebum production, itching and dandruff in the “zinc pyrithione” group.
The effects of zinc pyrithione on dandruff.

However, despite its long-standing efficacy, zinc pyrithione has been reclassified in the European Union as a CMR substance (carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction) of category 1B. Following this classification, its use in cosmetic products has been banned since March 2022. This decision stems from a regulatory precautionary intent : although the risks to the end user were deemed limited under normal conditions of use, the principle of protecting public health prevailed.

Ketoconazole, the reference antifungal active ingredient.

Ketoconazole is a synthetic antifungal agent used exclusively in pharmaceutical formulations, and not in cosmetic products. It is prescribed as a shampoo to treat severe dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis when conventional actives are insufficient. Its mode of action is based on inhibiting sterol synthesis in the yeast cell membrane Malassezia, thereby disrupting the membrane integrity of the fungi and their cellular metabolism. This targeted antifungal action effectively reduces the proliferation of Malassezia, limits the breakdown of sebum lipids into irritating fatty acids and, consequently, reduces inflammation and flaking of the scalp.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
LEHTONEN & al. (1992)101 subjects with dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis.Double-blind study comparing a 2% ketoconazole shampoo with a 1% hydrocortisone shampoo.Significant reduction in symptoms in both groups, with ketoconazole showing slightly higher efficacy (response rate of 88% vs. 80%).
DE DONCKER & al. (2001)66 individuals with dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis.Study with two parallel groups comparing 1% and 2% ketoconazole shampoos over four weeks.- 2% ketoconazole demonstrated superior efficacy compared with 1% after 2 and 4 weeks: a more substantial reduction in scaling and Malassezia density, together with a clearer improvement in dandruff scores.
The effects of ketoconazole on dandruff.

Selenium sulphide, in cases of excess sebum and dandruff.

Selenium sulfide is a commonly used antifungal and keratolytic agent in anti-dandruff shampoos. Its mode of action is based on two complementary mechanisms. On the one hand, it acts directly on the fungus Malassezia by limiting its proliferation on the surface of the scalp, which reduces the production of irritating metabolites resulting from sebum breakdown. On the other hand, it exerts a cytostatic effect on epidermal keratinocytes: it slows their renewal, the acceleration of which is responsible for excessive desquamation and the visible accumulation of flakes. Thanks to this dual action, selenium sulfide contributes to restoring the scalp’s balance and reducing the appearance of dandruff.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
GODSE et al. (2024)30 subjects with dandruffUse of a 2.5% selenium sulphide shampoo every three days for four weeks.Significant reduction in the dandruff score, from 11.5 to 7.17 (S1), to 4.93 (S2) and then to 2.5 (S4). 100% of participants reported improvement and no side effects were observed.
BARBOSA & al. (2025)93 individuals with dandruff, of whom 41% had straight hair, 29% had curly hair and 31% had tightly coiled hairUse a 1% selenium sulphide shampoo twice weekly for six weeks.Significant improvement in dandruff, pruritus and erythema from as early as four weeks across all hair types. No side effects reported.
The effects of selenium sulphide on dandruff.

Salicylic acid, to cleanse the scalp and eliminate dandruff.

The salicylic acid is a keratolytic agent widely used in cosmetics, particularly for removing blackheads. It is also beneficial for scalps prone to dandruff. Indeed, salicylic acid can dissolve the bonds between the corneocytes, the cells of the stratum corneum, which assists in the elimination of accumulated flakes on the surface. However, unlike antifungal agents that directly target Malassezia, salicylic acid acts indirectly and, when used alone, is often insufficient against dandruff. This is why it is often combined with antifungal agents such as ciclopirox olamine, piroctone olamine, or selenium sulfide.

StudyParticipantsProtocolResults
GOODE & al. (2002)154 people with dandruff and 70 with seborrheic dermatitis.Use 3 times a week for 4 weeks of a shampoo containing 3% salicylic acid and 1.5% ciclopirox olamine or a shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole.Significant improvement in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis was observed in both groups. There was a more pronounced reduction in itching in the salicylic acid / ciclopirox olamine group.
PI & al. (2025)20 individuals with seborrheic dermatitis.Use for four weeks of a gel containing salicylic acid, piroctone olamine, and zinc PCA (once a week), along with a lotion containing salicylic acid and piroctone olamine, followed by 12 weeks of using the lotion alone.Significant reduction in scores: dandruff (-55%), itching (-53%), erythema (-29%), seborrhea (-46%). After 16 weeks, 90% of patients transitioned to a mild form, with an overall clinical improvement of 80%.
WEI & al. (2025)95 people with seborrheic dermatitis.Use 3 times a week for 4 weeks a shampoo containing 0.9% salicylic acid and 1% selenium sulfide.Severe cases reduced from 28.4% to 3.2%. 90.5% of participants exhibited only mild dandruff or none at all. Significant improvement was observed across all symptoms (itchiness, scales, erythema).
The effects of salicylic acid on dandruff.

Sources

Diagnostic

Understand your skin
and its complex needs.