What You Should Know About Licorice Root Extract

Licorice root, with the botanical name Glycyrrhiza glabra, is best known for its aromatic roots. It originated in southern Europe and Asia and now grows in various regions of the world (Mediterranean, southern USA, Middle East, North Africa, Mauritius). In traditional medicine, licorice was a plant known for its ability to treat colds, relieve heartache, aid digestion and relieve coughing fits. Licorice is consumed as a tea, but also in the form of sticks.

Licorice root extract is now a common ingredient in cosmetic formulations. It is hidden behind the following I.N.C.I. names: Ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotasium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhetinic acid or glycyrrhiza glabra root extract. The recommended dosage is between 2 and 5%.

To obtain this extract, the roots are dried, peeled and then ground into powder. The compound obtained contains mainly glabridin (more than 95%). It also contains glycyrrhizic acid, which is considered anti-inflammatory, and flavonoids and isoflavonoids (glabrene, isoliquiritigenin), which are able to inhibit tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin synthesis.

Note: In Typology we use the "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract". It is more than 95% rich in glabridin and inhibits melanin, which explains its anti-stain properties. Nevertheless, glycyrrhetinic acid (INCI name: Glycyrrhetinic Acid) can also be obtained from licorice. This compound has contradictory properties compared to the "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract". Namely, it is called pro-melanin, meaning that it stimulates melanogenesis, which is responsible for tanning. That is why it is often found in self-tanning care products.

Licorice root extract is rich in glabridin, a polyphenolic flavonoid with antioxidant properties, and an excellent ally to protect the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, the latter are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are faced with stress, they produce many of them. There are many sources of stress, the main ones being UVA radiation, pollution, smoking and a diet too rich in fat and/or sugar. Free radicals are molecules that are particularly unstable because of their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair and then cause damage to the body's cells, DNA and proteins. This accelerates the aging process and wrinkles form on the surface of the skin. The flavonoids in licorice root extract specifically neutralize the superoxide anion, denoted O₂.-, preventing it from harming the healthy molecules in the skin. Thus, this herbal agent delays skin aging and protects the skin from external influences.