What does it mean to have DP(+) skin?

Skin Ageing BEGINNER

Oxidation Factor PROTECTED

Sebum Production HIGH (+)

The letter (D) indicates the emergence of the first visible signs of ageing when the skin is in motion . Fine lines are the first to appear and are the easiest to spot. They are typically located at the outer corner of the eyes. A change in skin texture or a lacklustre complexion may also be observed. These are generally visible around the age of 25. Indeed, from this age, we observe the start of a decline of about 1% each year in the production of collagen, one of the structural components of the skin, leading to a disorganisation of the skin's connective tissue and a change in skin elasticity. A slowdown in the renewal of epidermal cells has also been noted, gradually leading to a thinning of the skin's barrier function. In response to this phenomenon, water evaporates more and more: the skin then loses its luminosity and wrinkles become more pronounced. A decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid by an average of 6% per decade adds to this.

The letter "P" signifies that the skin is well protected against the sun's UV rays. Beyond these beneficial effects on mood or vitamin D secretion, excessive sun exposure is the main cause of premature skin ageing and the onset of skin cancers. Indeed, UVA rays can cause dermal changes especially in the elastic tissue, and UVB rays lead to epidermal damage. Activation of free radicals, alteration of the cell membrane, DNA modification... UV rays act differently within skin cells to generate damage, which can alter the cell's function, cause its death or provoke DNA mutations leading in the long term to the formation of cancerous cells. Thus, even though the skin has some defences against UV rays (melanogenesis, endogenous antioxidant system...), it is important to regularly apply an adequate amount of a sunscreen product suited to one's phototype and sun exposure conditions for reasonable exposure while limiting risks.

The AE(+) skin type is characterised by a production of sebum that is naturally high (hyperseborrhoea). This excessive secretion is primarily physiological, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, intake of certain medications, diet rich in fats and sugars, stress...). Although this skin type is well protected by a lipid-rich hydrolipidic film that covers the entire skin surface, this imbalance in sebum production can be a source of concern, with a greasy and shiny appearance in all circumstances, an increased risk of developing spots and blackheads, an enlargement of the pores, an irregular skin texture due to imperfections that create a micro-relief, and a dull complexion due to poor light reflection. However, being thicker and more resistant to aggressions, it is less prone to premature ageing.