What can replace squalane?

Derived from squalene, squalane is a molecule that makes up 15% of human sebum. When applied topically, this non-greasy and non-comedogenic lipid is easily absorbed by skin cells and contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film, thus allowing the skin to remain hydrated and protected. Squalane also has excellent sensory properties, enabling it to soften the feel of formulas and facilitate their spread.

Even though numerous studies, some of which were conducted with over 600 panellists, have demonstrated the safety of squalane, there are instances where some individuals react to this active ingredient. A case in point is a patch test conducted with squalane on 20 volunteers. After 48 hours, two individuals developed erythema. Therefore, for those sensitive to squalane but still wishing to reap its benefits, it is imperative to find alternatives, such as:

• Glycerine.

  Glycerine is a compound derived from animal or vegetable fats. Sometimes referred to as "glycerol", it has a strong humectant action comparable to that of squalane, enabling it to enhance the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. Indeed, the topical application of glycerine helps to strengthen the hydrolipidic film and protect the skin from external aggressions. Moreover, this active ingredient ensures better cell cohesion, which contributes to the restoration of the skin's natural defences.

• Panthenol.

  This precursor to vitamin B5 is well-known to those with dry and fragile skin. Particularly appreciated for its hydrating and soothing properties, the panthenol also limits transepidermal water loss. Once applied to the skin, this active ingredient is quickly absorbed by the superficial layers of the epidermis and transforms into pantothenic acid, a constituent of coenzyme A. This coenzyme is involved in the synthesis of fatty acids in the skin's lipid barrier.

• Ceramides.

  Essential constituents of the intercellular cement of the corneal layer, the ceramides are also used in cosmetics. Hydrating and restructuring, they play a crucial role in the skin's water retention capacity. Moreover, by occupying the space between each of the cells of the corneal layer, ceramides create a barrier for the skin to prevent dehydration and signs of sensitivity, while protecting it from environmental factors that attack its protective surface.

• Collagen.

  Naturally present in the dermis, collagen is one of the guarantors of skin structure. Often found in treatments targeting skin ageing, this active ingredient can be compared to squalane due to its similar properties. The collagen is indeed hydrating and restructuring. In addition to its ability to attract and retain water molecules in tissues, it helps to increase cell-to-cell adhesion in the epidermis, involved in the formation of the skin barrier. Collagen can also form a thin film on the skin's surface, thus limiting water loss.

• Aloe vera gel.

  Extracted from the succulent plant of the same name, aloe vera gel presents an intriguing alternative to squalane. Rich in hygroscopic amino acids, this ingredient acts like a sponge to attract and retain water. Studies in vitro have shown that aloe vera gel can form a film on the skin's surface due to the mucopolysaccharides it contains. Upon polymerisation, their long chains form a thin semi-permeable film that limits water loss. It's also worth noting that aloe vera gel, like squalane, is non-comedogenic.

• Some plant-based oils.

  Vegetable oils, the epitome of natural ingredients, are increasingly being used in cosmetics. Rich in fatty acids, they are particularly renowned for their moisturising and nourishing properties. Indeed, they can strengthen the hydrolipidic film present on the skin's surface as well as its barrier function. However, not all can be substituted for squalane, especially if they are intended to be used by oily skin, as some are comedogenic. Among the dry vegetable oils that can replace squalane, we can mention argan oil, baobab oil, camellia oil, hemp oil, jojoba oil, and hazelnut oil.

• Final Report on the Safety Evaluation of Squalane and Squalene. International Journal of Toxicology (1982).

• SURBER C. & al. Glycerol and the skin: a comprehensive approach to its origin and functions. British Journal of Dermatology (2008).

• SAPLE D. G. & al. Aloe vera: A Short Review.Indian Journal of Dermatology (2008).

• LENZ H. & al. A new topical emollient containing panthenol: effect on skin hydration following single and extended use in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2016).

• RODRIGUEZ M.I. A. A review of its sources and potential cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

• WANG G. & al. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. Journal of Dermatological Science (2019).