Topical application: what are the benefits of black seed oil?

Oleic acid, an omega-9 found in black seed vegetable oil, has a moisturising effect on the skin. Indeed, this compound is naturally present in the hydrolipidic film. This film is located on the surface of the epidermis and notably helps to protect it from UV rays, pollution, and dehydration. It acts as a shield for the skin. The topical application of black seed vegetable oil thus has beneficial properties for skin protection and hydration, as it helps to strengthen this hydrolipidic film. Moreover, black seed oil prevents the appearance of dehydration fine lines, small superficial streaks that form on the face when the skin barrier is weakened.

The linoleic acid found in black seed oil is an omega-6 capable of reacting with ceramides, lipids naturally present in the skin that ensure good cohesion between the cells of the stratum corneum. Indeed, when linoleic acid comes into contact with ceramides, an esterification reaction occurs, during which the linoleic acid and lipids bind, forming the skin's impermeable barrier.

A deficiency in linoleic acid leads to a weakening of the epidermal barrier and an increase in insensible water loss (IWL). This results in the skin becoming drier and more prone to irritation. The loss of skin hydration also promotes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, making them more visible. The application of a skincare product containing black seed oil is therefore beneficial for individuals with dry skin, as it nourishes the epidermis while making it less susceptible to dehydration.

Thanks to thymoquinone, its active ingredient, black seed oil protects the skin from oxidative stress and defends it against free radicals generated by UV rays, pollution or tobacco. These reactive species attack cellular components and are responsible for several skin disorders (hyperpigmentation, ageing prematurely...).

The thymoquinone found in black seed oil protects the skin by enhancing the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GPx), and catalase, which are enzymes that play a role in theelimination of free radicals. SOD catalyses the dismutation of superoxide anions (O2-) into oxygen (O2) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). GPx, on the other hand, facilitates the transformation of organic hydroperoxides before they can damage cells. Finally, catalase catalyses the dismutation of hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen.

An ally for sensitive skin or skin prone to inflammatory diseases such as acne, eczema, psoriasis or rosacea, black seed oil is soothing and calming. It indeed helps to reduce redness, irritation and itching. These effects are due to thymoquinone, a molecule that acts at different levels in the body and helps to lower the levels of interleukin-1β, 2 and 6 (IL-1β, IL-2 and IL-6), pro-inflammatory cytokines. Thymoquinone also inhibits the expression of cyclooxygenase (COX), an enzyme that catalyses the conversion of arachidonic acid into prostaglandin H2. Prostaglandins are compounds that increase inflammation.

Furthermore, a recent study conducted on rats with oedema showed that the topical application of a balm containing 10% black seed oil significantly reduced inflammation within a few hours. The number of leukocytes, immune system cells, notably decreased by nearly 45%, as did the level of TNF-α, a pro-inflammatory cytokine, by approximately 50%.

Theblack seed oil also possesses healing properties, which are beneficial in combating acne scars or stretch marks. These were particularly highlighted in a recent study conducted on injured rats. The scientists demonstrated that, following the application of a gel containing 10% black seed oil and the placement of a dressing for 7 days, the sizes of the rats' wounds were reduced by 40%. The mechanism explaining the healing effects of black seed oil has not yet been identified, but these have been substantiated by several studies.

At Typology, we have incorporated thevegetable oil of black cumin (INCI: Nigella Sativa Seed Oil) into our soothing botanical blend. This treatment is suitable for all skin types, but is particularly adapted to sensitive and fragile skin, prone to redness. Although they can have different causes, all skin redness have in common an inflammation of the skin.

This night serum soothes the skin and reduces the inflammation that causes various types of redness. It does this by combining the action of five other botanical extracts with anti-inflammatory properties: cannabidiol, calendula oil macerate (INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract), hemp oil (INCI: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil) and green tea extract (INCI: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract).

• SUTRISNA E. & al. A Comparative study of the effects of Nigella sativa oil gel and aloe vera gel on wound healing in diabetic rats. Journal of Evidence-based Integrative Medicine (2018).

• AL-FARGA A. & al. A narrative review on various oil extraction methods, encapsulation processes, fatty acid profiles, oxidative stability, and medicinal properties of black seed ( Nigella sativa). Foods (2022).