Sesame oil to delay the appearance of wrinkles?

Throughout life, wrinkles gradually form on the face, typically beginning to appear between the ages of 25 and 30. This onset follows a gradual reduction in the synthesis of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts, leading to a loss of elasticity and suppleness. Additionally, the skin thins over time and the amount of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands also decreases, promoting skin dryness and the appearance of wrinkles. Furthermore, by generating free radicals in the skin that react with cellular compounds and disrupt the network of collagen and elastin, exposure to ultraviolet rays is one of the main factors responsible for photoaging.

Often obtained by cold pressing sesame seeds, the sesame oil is a vegetable oil that possesses numerous beneficial properties for the skin and hair, making it a favoured ingredient in the formulation of cosmetic products. Some of its benefits are even thought to be useful in preventing the onset of wrinkles.

• Sesame oil ensures the maintenance of the skin's hydration level.

  The sesame oil is a rich source of fatty acids, notably containing oleic acid. This molecule is a component of the hydrolipidic film found on the skin's surface. It thus enhances skin hydration and helps to limit insensible water loss. Thanks to its fatty acid content, sesame oil contributes to the prevention of the appearance of dehydration fine lines, linked to the weakening of the skin barrier.

• Sesame oil protects cells from oxidative stress.

  Beyond the fatty acids present in its composition, sesame oil also contains tocopherols, powerful antioxidants. These can assist sesame oil in combating skin ageing related to oxidative stress. Indeed, antioxidants are capable of neutralising free radicals, unstable species, through an electron donation. They thus limit the cellular damage that these can cause and ensure a protection against the photoageing.

  Furthermore, sesame oil contains sesamin and sesamol, lignans that exhibit significant antioxidant activity. A study by KAUR specifically investigated the effect of sesamol as an agent limiting cellular photoaging. The study was conducted on a group of mice exposed to UV radiation from a 300 W lamp over a wavelength range of 260 to 400 nm. An ointment made of lanolin and paraffin containing 5 mg of sesamol was applied to the mice's backs twice a day for five days. It was observed that sesamol had a potent antioxidant effect and was able to halve the levels of malondialdehydes (MDA). These molecules are cytotoxic and mutagenic aldehydes released by free radicals, causing various cellular damages.

Thanks to its properties, sesame oil is among the vegetable oils potentially interesting for preventing the signs of skin ageing. However, without clinical studies, this remains a hypothesis.

• KAUR I. & al. Development and evaluation of sesamol as an anti-ageing agent. International Journal of Dermatology (2006).

• JAIN S. & al. Comparative Study on the Efficacy of Sesame Oil and Peppermint Oil - A Survey. Annals of the Romanian Society for Cell Biology (2021).

• MENG Q. & al. Sesame (Sesamum indicum L.): An Exhaustive Review of Nutritional Value, Phytochemical Composition, Health Advantages, Food Development, and Industrial Applications. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2022).

• PIOTROWSKA A. & al. The Effect of Raspberry Seed Oil, Sesame Oil, and Coconut Oil on the Skin in Young Women. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2023).