Sesame seed oil is frequently used in the formulation of cosmetic products. It is often said to be a valuable source of hydration for skin and hair tissues. Discover the truth of this claim and learn more about the hydrating effects of sesame oil.
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Sesame oil, a source of hydration.
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Published July 4, 2024,
updated on July 4, 2024,
by
Marie, Scientific Editor
—
5 min read
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How does sesame oil hydrate the skin?
The sesame oil, or Sesamum Indicum, is typically extracted by cold pressing sesame seeds. It is one of the most widely used oils in the world. Sesame oil has a composition rich in active ingredients, allowing it to exert a range of beneficial properties for the skin and hair. Indeed, it notably has effects anti-inflammatory, healing, protective and antibacterial.
A recent study by PIOTROWSKA has explored the moisturising potential of sesame oil when applied topically. This study involved a sample of 35 young women, with an average age of 20 years. During the study, the hydration levels of the stratum corneum before and after an application of sesame oil were measured. Additionally, another key measure of skin hydration, the transepidermal water loss, also known as TEWL, was conducted. The results, presented below, show that sesame oil, after a single application, has a real efficacy in improving skin hydration.
| Parameters | Before applying sesame oil | After applying sesame oil | Variation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hydration levels in the stratum corneum (corneometric unit) | 32 | 41 | + 27.3 % |
| Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) (g/m2.h) | 12.9 | 12 | - 7.0 % |
Effet de l'huile de sésame sur différents paramètres de l'hydratation cutanée.
Source : PIOTROWSKA A. & al. Impact of Raspberry Seed Oil, Sesame Oil, and Coconut Oil on Skin in Young Women. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2023).
Thanks to its composition of monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid) and polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid and palmitic acid), the sesame oil strengthens the skin's hydrolipidic balance by forming a protective film on its surface, which helps to limit water loss from the upper layers of the epidermis. Oleic acid is indeed a constituent of sebum, a fatty substance produced by the sebaceous glands and responsible for skin hydration. This fatty acid plays a significant role in protecting the skin. Linoleic acid, on the other hand, is found in the cell membranes of the stratum corneum. By integrating into it, it plays a role in hydration by strengthening the skin barrier, which also helps to prevent water loss. The fatty acids contained in sesame oil therefore help to protect the skin from dehydration by forming a true shield.
Sesame oil thus contributes to the preservation of skin hydration and the protection of the barrier function.
Sesame oil for moisturising the hair.
The moisturising virtues of the sesame oil can also benefit the hair. Indeed, they too need to be hydrated to stay healthy. This role is normally fulfilled by the sebum synthesised at the scalp level by the sebaceous glands before flowing along the hair fibres and coating them. However, wind, certain chemicals or even overly vigorous brushing can weaken this protective film. It is then beneficial to reinforce it with a vegetable oil like sesame oil in order to maintain the protection of the hair and give it a boost of shine.
Furthermore, sesame oil contributes to the restoration and cohesion of the cuticle scales, the outer part of the hair fibres. In doing so, it promotes impermeability and protection of the inner layers such as the cortex. Rich in keratin, the latter gives hair its flexibility and elasticity. The various hair actions of sesame vegetable oil thus make it an interesting ingredient for dry or damaged hair.
Sources
HWANG L. & al. Sesame Oil. Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products (2005).
YAGOUB A. & al. Chemical Composition and Oil Characteristics of Sesame Seed Varieties Cultivated in Sudan. Research Journal of Agriculture and Biological Sciences (2008).
PIOTROWSKA A. & al. The Effect of Raspberry Seed Oil, Sesame Oil, and Coconut Oil on the Skin in Young Women. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2023).
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