Regulating oily skin with nettle?

An oily skin is constantly shiny and glossy due to an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands, organs of the dermis present all over the skin except for the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. Sebum is a complex lipid mixture that is part of the hydrolipidic film present on the surface of the epidermis. This has a protective role for the skin and prevents its dehydration. Sebum can thus be described as an essential element for skin health. However, overproduction has negative consequences.

appearance of blemishes. An excess of sebum can indeed block the pores of the skin and promote bacterial proliferation - notably that of Cutibacterium acnes , playing a role in acne. Moreover, oily skin is often a source of aesthetic concern due to the greasy appearance it gives to the skin. It's also worth noting that makeup has a harder time staying on oily skin. Overproduction of sebum is generally due to endogenous factors , such as heredity or hormonal fluctuations.

Thenettle extract (INCI: Urtica Dioica Leaf Extract), derived from the leaves of the stinging nettle, is a natural ingredient abundantly available in the cosmetics market. It boasts numerous properties such as antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory... Thenettle extract is particularly considered a friend to oily skin and possesses sebum-regulating properties.

This natural ingredient is indeed capable ofinhibiting 5-α-reductase, the enzyme that catalyses the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Testosterone is the main androgen in men, while in women it is Δ-4-androstenedione and dehydroepiandrosterone. Within the sebocyte, these androgens are transformed by various enzymes into testosterone, before forming dihydrotestosterone under the action of 5-α-reductase. However, DHT stimulates sebum production. Indeed, when this androgen binds to a specific cytosolic receptor located in the sebaceous glands, it triggers an increase in the activity of the sebaceous glands, and therefore an intensification of sebum synthesis. By inhibiting this process, nettle thus helps to regulate oily skin.

A recent study evaluated the sebum-regulating properties of nettle when taken orally. 20 women suffering from hyperandrogenism, a condition characterised by high levels of androgens, took 300 to 600 mg of nettle extract every day for four months. Their total testosterone levels, taking into account the amount of testosterone and its derivatives, including DHT, were measured before and after the experiment. The researchers observed an average decrease of 35% in the participants' total testosterone levels at the end of the four months. The individuals' perceptions of their skin's oiliness were also collected: 20% of them noticed an improvement. This may seem small, but it is worth noting that the hyperandrogenism from which the participants suffered is a medical condition requiring regular intake of anti-androgens to be controlled. Nettle can only supplement their medical treatment, its sebum-regulating potential being more pronounced in individuals not suffering from severe endocrine disorders.

At Typology, we offer you a purifying mask based on nettle extract, green clay, and pine charcoal, active sebum-regulating ingredients favoured by oily skin types. Composed of 99% natural origin ingredients, this treatment dries out blemishes and tightens pores for healthier skin. Its clay-like texture leaves the skin soft and comfortable. Our mask should be applied once or twice a week on cleansed skin and left on the face for about fifteen minutes before rinsing.

• ALIASGHARZADEH A. & al. Therapeutic effects of stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) in women with Hyperandrogenism. International Journal of Current Research and Academic Review (2014).

• BENMOUSSA A. & al. Mise en valeur du potentiel nutritionnel et thérapeutique de l’ortie dioïque (Urtica dioïca L.). Hegel (2016).

• SEMALTY A. & al. A Comprehensive Review on Phytochemistry and Pharmacological Effects of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica). Current traditional medicine (2017).