Occasional Spots: 4 Mistakes to Avoid.

Many are those who advocate the local application of toothpaste on acne spots. This belief is based on the fact that toothpaste contains drying elements (alcohol, baking soda...) and antibacterial agents (formerly, triclosan) in its formula.

However, toothpastes typically have a basic pH, in contrast to the skin, which has an acidic pH. Therefore, the topical application of toothpaste disrupts the skin's pH balance, which can sensitise the skin. Furthermore, it is important to note that toothpastes have been formulated for oral use, not topical use. Thus, the topical application of toothpaste could potentially cause skin reactions, such as irritations or even allergies (contact dermatitis).

The beneficial effects of toothpaste on acne spots have not been substantiated in scientific literature. On the contrary, it could sensitise your skin and exacerbate the existing problem. A study conducted by a dermatologist has indeed shown that the use of toothpaste in some women caused acne around the mouth.

Therefore, the use of toothpaste for acne spots is strongly discouraged.

The term "comedogenic" originates from the word "comedones" and refers to the property of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to block the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. However, this blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as dilated pores, open microcysts also known as blackheads or closed microcysts or whiteheads.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale from 0 to 5. A score of 0 indicates that no comedones have developed, meaning the pores are not blocked, and a score of 5 signifies a high probability that the cosmetic ingredient in question will cause comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that scores 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic. Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, incompatible with oily skin prone to occasional spots.

• The animal waxes: Beeswax (cire d’abeille) and Lanolin (lanoline);

• Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

• Some vegetable oils and butters: Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc... ;

• The gums and resins : Carageenan (Carrageenan), Algin (Sodium Alginate), Xanthan, etc... ;

• Certain fatty esters : Particularly derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or even isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

Exposing oneself to the sun during the summer season to treat acne may seem like sound advice. However, the drying effect of the sun on acne spots is only temporary. The same applies to its action on the sebaceous glands responsible for sebum production. At the start of the summer season, sun exposure can give the appearance of beautiful skin. However, following the drying phase, the skin system re-establishes itself to initiate a reactive hyperseborrhea. Thus, the sebaceous glands produce an astronomical amount of sebum that tries to emerge on the skin's surface. As the skin is thick, the pilosebaceous follicles are blocked and the sebum accumulates in the orifices. This accumulation of sebum also promotes the development of bacteria responsible for the onset of acne. Following prolonged sun exposure, acne outbreaks occur as the skin surface thins to regain its normal thickness. This is therebound effect.

Furthermore, UV rays also damage skin cells and cause mild redness or more or less painful sunburns. If we add to this an increased risk of skin cancer, deeper wrinkles and other harmful effects, it is generally better to avoid excessive sun exposure, even if it is to alleviate occasional spots over just a few days!