Oily skin is characterised by an excessive sebum production by the sebaceous glands, that is, hyperseborrhoea. This sebum, primarily composed of triglycerides, wax esters, squalene and free fatty acids, normally plays a protective role as it forms part of the hydrolipidic film that preserves the hydration and suppleness of the epidermis. However, when produced in excess, it can lead to a shiny appearance, uneven skin texture and an increased risk of pore blockage. The hyperseborrhoea can result from hormonal factors, notably an increased sensitivity of the sebaceous glands to androgens, but also from genetic predispositions, an imbalance of the skin microbiota or environmental factors.
To care for oily skin, one must endeavour to reduce excess sebum without impairing the skin barrier.
In this context, the L-carnitine appears noteworthy for oily skin owing to its role in cellular energy metabolism. This molecule acts as a long-chain fatty acid transporter, delivering them to the mitochondria for oxidation and conversion into energy. In the sebaceous glands, much of sebum production relies on the availability of these fatty acids. By enhancing their mitochondrial uptake, L-carnitine could help reduce the intracellular lipid reserve and thus diminish sebum synthesis. This mechanism is particularly dependent on the activation of carnitine acyltransferase, an enzyme involved in the mitochondrial transport of fatty acids.
A study assessed the efficacy of L-carnitine in regulating sebum production using an in vitro. The researchers used a human sebaceous cell line (SZ95) to investigate the molecule’s impact on lipid metabolism. When exposed to 0.5 % and 1 % L-carnitine, these cells exhibited a significant increase in β-oxidation, i.e. the process by which fatty acids are broken down in the mitochondria. In parallel, the amount of intracellular lipids decreased in a dose-dependent manner, reflecting a reduced pool available for sebum synthesis.