Italian Helichrysum Essential Oil and Eczema: A solution against this skin condition?

Eczema is a dermatosis characterised by skin inflammation. This chronic disease, which progresses in flare-ups, causes red patches accompanied by severe itching. It typically manifests on the face, back, neck, hands, feet, and flexural folds. Depending on the cause, two types of eczema are distinguished: atopic eczema and contact eczema. The former has a genetic origin and is due to a high quantity of IgE antibodies coupled with a dysfunction of the skin barrier. Environmental allergens can then penetrate the epidermis more easily, causing an inappropriate inflammatory response. Contact eczema , on the other hand, corresponds to an allergic reaction of the skin when it comes into contact with a specific allergen.

Derived from the flowers ofHelichrysum italicum, the Italian helichrysum essential oil, also known as immortelle essential oil, is a botanical ingredient commonly used to formulate cosmetic care products. Indeed, the immortelle essential oil has a rich biochemical composition making its use on the skin or hair beneficial. Some people even use it to soothe the symptoms of eczema.

Indeed, Italian Helichrysum essential oil contains several molecules with anti-inflammatory properties, such as neryl acetate, italidiones, and linalool. The mechanisms of action of these various actives differ slightly, but all work to reduce inflammation in skin cells. For example, italidiones inhibit cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX), key factors in the inflammatory process. These enzymes are indeed involved in the release of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, inflammation mediators responsible for painful sensations and redness found in eczematous skin.

Furthermore, the essential oil of immortelle possesses healing properties, potentially allowing it to positively impact the micro-lesions caused by eczema. Indeed, this botanical extract could stimulate the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts and stem cells during the healing process, processes that are essential for the formation of the granulation tissue. The healing properties of the Italian helichrysum essential oil have also been demonstrated in humans. Scientific literature reports four patients with wounds treated with 10% of immortelle essential oil in a base of virgin coconut oil. This formulation was applied three times a day for 7 to 28 days, until the wounds were completely healed. All cases showed good healing, with no side effects.

Despite these initial promising results, there is currently no clinical trial that has demonstrated the effectiveness of Italian helichrysum essential oil in combating eczema. Thus, even though it appears to have interesting properties for alleviating the symptoms of this dermatosis, it is for the moment impossible to assert that this oil is beneficial in cases of eczema.

Important : Used alone, the essential oil of immortelle can exacerbate eczema. Therefore, it is preferable to dilute it in a vegetable oil before applying it. If your skin is atopic and/or sensitive, a 10% dilution is generally recommended.

• PALMEIRA DE OLIVEIRA R. & others. Helichrysum italicum: From traditional use to scientific data. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2013).

• APPENDINO G. & al. Helichrysum italicum: The dormant titan of Mediterranean herbal medicine. Herbalgram (2015).

• BARBAROT S. & al. Epidemiology of Atopic Dermatitis in Adults: Results from an International Survey. Allergy (2018).

• MANDIC B. & al. Composition, Antioxidant Potential, and Antimicrobial Activity of Helichrysum plicatum DC. Various Extracts. Plants (2020).