Is glycolic acid an effective solution for oily hair?

Glycolic acid, derived from fruit sources, has demonstrated numerous beneficial properties in recent years, including exfoliation, inhibition of melanin synthesis, stimulation of collagen synthesis and reinforcement of the skin barrier and many more…. So, how might these advantages be applied to the care of oily hair?

Sebum, the oily substance produced by sebaceous glands, plays a crucial role in keeping the skin and scalp moisturised. However, excess sebum production, often driven by hormonal factors such as androgens, can result in greasy hair, blocked follicles and discomfort. Whilst glycolic acid doesn’t directly inhibit sebum production, it could still play a significant role in managing oily hair in several ways:

• Exfoliation and Sebum Control: Glycolic acid’s primary function as an exfoliant is to remove dead skin cells from the scalp. By clearing clogged pores and follicles, it prevents build-up and accelerates cell turnover without depriving the scalp of essential moisture.

• Cleansing and Oil Removal: Glycolic acid also breaks down sebum and debris on the scalp, which is essential for individuals with oily hair. This helps maintain a fresher scalp environment and reduces overall greasiness, making it an excellent solution for those struggling with oily hair conditions.

• Indirect Sebum Regulation: Whilst glycolic acid does not directly regulate sebum production, by maintaining a clean scalp and preventing pore congestion, it may reduce the stimulus for sebaceous glands to secrete excess oil.

• Maintaining Scalp Health: A clean, balanced scalp environment can contribute to healthier hair overall. By removing excess sebum and preventing buildup, glycolic acid helps reduce the risk of other scalp disorders, such as irritation or acne, which are often aggravated by oily conditions. Additionally, glycolic acid may serve as a pH regulator and hydrating agent, helping to preserve the scalp’s natural acidity and prevent excessive dryness.

With all of this in mind, glycolic acid appears to be a promising approach for oily hair. However, there is currently no direct research on its use specifically for oily hair. Clinical trials, such as the one by MINAS A. et al. (2000), have demonstrated its efficacy in managing scalp conditions like psoriasis, suggesting that glycolic acid can be safely applied to the scalp. Nevertheless, most studies focus on its benefits for facial skin, such as reducing acne and oiliness.

When selecting haircare products containing glycolic acid, it is important to note that commercial formulations typically contain low concentrations, rendering them safe for routine use. However, if you plan to apply higher concentrations of glycolic acid yourself or attempt a chemical peel on your scalp, you must proceed with caution, as such applications have not yet been evaluated in clinical trials for haircare. Additionally, you should be aware of the increased UV sensitivity induced by glycolic acid; wearing protective headwear when outdoors can help mitigate potential sun damage.

Although direct studies on the effects of glycolic acid on oily hair are presently limited, its well-established use in skin care and success in treating scalp conditions such as psoriasis indicate it may offer potential benefits for hair care. Its sebum-regulating and moisturising properties make it an appealing candidate for inclusion in hair care regimens, particularly for those contending with oily scalp conditions. Nevertheless, more targeted research is required to verify its efficacy specifically in managing oily hair.

• MINAS A. & al. Double-blind clinical study reveals synergistic action between alpha-hydroxy acid and betamethasone lotions towards topical treatment of scalp psoriasis. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2000).

• THAMAN L. A. & al. Cosmetic formulation of skin care products. Taylor & Francis Group (2006).

• SHARAD J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013).

• HADDAD L. & al. Two is better than one: The combined effects of glycolic acid and salicylic acid on acne-related disorders. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).

• TIMAR S. Hair anatomy and material science. Islamic Azad University (2020).

• POTLAPATI A. & al. Shampoo, conditioner and hair washing. International Journal of Research in Dermatology (2022).

• MUKOVOZOV I. & al. Topical AHA in dermatology: Formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics (2023).