Infrared phototherapy to smooth out wrinkles?

It is entirely natural to see wrinkles form as time goes by. The appearance of these small furrows is due to a combination of genetic, hormonal, and environmental factors. Among the intrinsic processes, we can mention the gradual decrease in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, the dermal proteins ensuring the tone and elasticity of the skin, initiated from the age of 25, as well as the slowing down of cellular regeneration, estimated at 50% between the ages of 30 and 70, leading to a thinning of the skin barrier. In addition to these internal factors, sun exposure throughout life plays a key role in the appearance of wrinkles. Referred to as photoaging, this process accounts for nearly 80% of skin ageing. Finally, the facial expressions we adopt, which reflect our emotions, accelerate the onset of wrinkles.

While some individuals are quite comfortable with their wrinkles and fine lines, the emergence of these ageing signs can be distressing for others who then seek solutions. In recent years, a new method has gained popularity in combating skin sagging: the red and/or infrared light therapy. Indeed, this technique has its appeal: it can be performed at home, provided one invests in an LED mask, it is non-invasive, and it is associated with few side effects. Moreover, several studies have shown that it has interesting biological effects in reducing wrinkles.

Infrared light is primarily associated with a stimulation of fibroblast activity, the dermal cells that produce collagen and elastin. More specifically, infrared light activates cytochrome c oxidase, a complex protein unit IV of the mitochondrial transport chain, responsible for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate. Adenosine triphosphate, or ATP, is a key molecule in cellular energy. This interaction enhances cellular activity, oxygen consumption, gene expression, growth factors, and cell proliferation.

This was particularly demonstrated during a study in vitro conducted by PARSA and his team in 2021. Human fibroblasts were irradiated daily with a combination of red LED lights (640 nm) and near IR (830 nm) at 0.5 mW/cm2 for 10 minutes (0.3 J/cm2). After three days, the researchers observed a significant increase in the expression of the ELN, COL1A1 and COL3A1 genes, which code for elastin, type I collagen and type III collagen, respectively, as well as the synthesis of type I procollagen and elastin proteins. ATP production also increased.

By stimulating the production of collagen and elastin and enhancing cellular regeneration, the infrared light establishes itself as a non-invasive solution to improve skin firmness.