Hyaluronic Acid Skincare: Facts and Myths.

Fact. Hyaluronic acid is an active ingredient naturally produced by the body. It is present in significant quantities in the connective tissue, eyes and skin. Nearly 50% of its total quantity is found in the dermis, the deep layer of the skin. It constitutes the extracellular matrix and serves as a support for collagen and elastin fibers. It also ensures skin hydration because it acts like a molecular sponge: it captures water molecules and retains them.

Nevertheless, over the years, the body's production of hyaluronic acid tends to decrease (a drop of about 6% per decade), which leads to skin slackening, the appearance of the first wrinkles, and a decrease in cellular activity.  From the age of 50, it has been proven that the stock of hyaluronic acid is divided by two.

Myth. Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that is generally well tolerated by all skin types and does not seem to have a sensitizing potential. It does not present any undesirable side effects when applied topically. This excellent tolerance comes from the fact that this molecule is already present in the skin and is not unknown to the body, which tolerates and absorbs it even better.

Fact. As previously mentioned, the stock of hyaluronic acid is halved after the age of 50, which results in wrinkles that become more pronounced and skin slackening that is increasingly visible. Faced with this fact, it is particularly interesting to provide the skin with hyaluronic acid via dermocosmetic treatments. Indeed, it is less invasive and therefore much less risky than injections...

Nevertheless, it is obvious that to have a greater action on the attenuation of wrinkles, injections are more effective.  As the syringe penetrates deeply, the active ingredient can fill in wrinkles, particularly frown lines, nasolabial folds or forehead wrinkles. However, these injections can be accompanied by undesirable effects, the least serious of which are edema, skin redness, itching, erythema and slight bruising.

Myth. Hyaluronic acid skincare products can be used from the age of 20.

In fact, in addition to acting against skin aging, hyaluronic acid is essential for skin hydration. Capable of capturing and retaining up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, this active ingredient is the solution to bring a shot of hydration to dry and dull skin or to skin that cannot withstand the harshness of winter, starting at age 20.

Between 30 and 40, a hyaluronic acid treatment is relevant to reduce the first signs of aging. With its low molecular weight, the molecule penetrates deep into the epidermis to reinforce and stimulate its own production naturally produced by the human body. Thus, the appearance of wrinkles is delayed and the small signs of aging already present are smoothed out.

Myth. Contrary to popular belief, hyaluronic acid injections are different from Botox injections. In fact, they only affect the dermis and not the muscle. Hyaluronic acid restores volume and hydrates the skin, whereas Botox relaxes the muscle. The effect of hyaluronic acid on the skin is not permanent. It fades after 6 to 20 months, which requires renewal.

Myth. In hair care, hyaluronic acid can also fulfill several functions to improve your hair on a daily basis.

• Prevent split ends: A hyaluronic acid treatment applied to the lengths of your hair will prevent hair breakage and limit split ends, making your hair softer and stronger.

• Tame unruly hair: Unruly hair tends to frizz. A treatment concentrated in hyaluronic acid applied to the lengths smoothes out frizz and makes styling easier.

• Restore shine: Several factors such as pollution, stress, smoking and coloring can make hair dry and dull. A treatment with hyaluronic acid hydrates the hair fiber in depth and repairs damaged hair. Once moisturized and repaired, your hair will regain its shine.

• Take care of your curls: A treatment rich in hyaluronic acid redefines and restructures your curls. It also adds volume to your hair. If your hair is naturally curly, this active ingredient helps to keep it shiny, supple and elastic. Finally, on frizzy hair, the use of this active ingredient provides form and hydration.

• DINI G. & al. Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. International Journal of Dermatology (1994).

• MICHELOTTI A. & al. Anti-aging and filling efficacy of six types hyaluronic acid based dermo-cosmetic treatment: double blind, randomized clinical trial of efficacy and safety. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2014).