Acne can affect all skin types. Regardless of the reasons for its onset, it is crucial to treat it before the appearance of comedones worsens. Can the application or injection of hyaluronic acid help? And what about acne scars? Let's decipher all of this together.
Hyaluronic Acid against Acne?
Published on May 14, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
Themes:
Acne: Can Hyaluronic Acid Help?
Presenting as red or white spots, sometimes painful, acne is a multifactorial inflammatory skin condition that can result from an overproduction of sebum, the accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis, or the proliferation of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes. Several active ingredients, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, help to treat it. These possess keratolytic properties that allow them to gradually remove pore blockages and promote the evacuation of sebum. Contrary to what its name might suggest, hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliant. Indeed, this active ingredient has no effect on the lipid bonds between the cells of the horny layer and therefore cannot prevent pore blockage. Furthermore, it does not appear to have any sebum-regulating or antibacterial activity.
When applied topically, hyaluronic acid has no proven effect on acne.
We can only hypothesise about the potential benefits of hyaluronic acid in the case of inflammatory acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties. These properties have been highlighted in various in vitro studies and clinical trials conducted with patients suffering from inflammatory dermatosis (eczema, psoriasis, rosacea...). By inhibiting the activation of the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), it prevents the release of inflammatory cytokines, which are responsible for redness and irritation. However, we cannot conclude that this mechanism of action allows hyaluronic acid to alleviate acne, as no study has yet proven this.
Please note : Although hyaluronic acid does not appear to act directly on acne, this active ingredient is widely used to formulate moisturising creams designed to accompany drying acne treatments. Non-comedogenic and possessing a strong hygroscopic power, it alleviates dryness and improves skin comfort and the quality of life of patients.
Hyaluronic acid to finally deal with acne scars?
Acting on angiogenesis, hyaluronic acid exhibits interesting healing properties that can help to reduce the appearance of acne scars. Indeed, in addition to its hydrating virtues, which are necessary for proper wound healing, this active ingredient promotes the movement of fibroblasts and their migration within the developing extracellular matrix, which is essential for the formation of new skin tissue. A recent study involving 43 patients with scars demonstrated that the regular application of a 0.2% hyaluronic acid cream over 28 days could reduce their average surface area by 70%. Therefore, it can be cautiously assumed that hyaluronic acid could help to decrease the visibility of acne scars.
There is increasing evidence of the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid on acne scars when it is injected. Thanks to its filling effect, it can raise the base of the scar, thereby making it less visible. However, this treatment is only effective in the case of atrophic scars and is not suitable for everyone: people taking anticoagulants or suffering from autoimmune diseases, and pregnant or breastfeeding women are not eligible for hyaluronic acid injections. Several studies have highlighted the effectiveness of this technique in reducing the visibility of atrophic acne scars with very few side effects (temporary redness and swelling).
| Study | Number of participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| FRIEDMAN & al. (2019) | 12 | 2 injections of hyaluronic acid at 4-week intervals | Minimal improvement for 2 patients, moderate for 8 and significant for 2 |
| BLOMSTER & al. (2018) | 12 | 3 injections of hyaluronic acid at 4-week intervals | No improvement for 1 patient, moderate improvement for 1, good for 9 and very good for 1 |
| GOODMAN & al. (2016) | 5 | 2 injections of hyaluronic acid at 2 weeks interval | Average improvement in the appearance of scars quantified at 68% |
Sources
KERN J. & al. Efficacy and Safety of Hyaluronic Acid in the Management of Acute Wounds. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2006).
GALL Y. Hyaluronic Acid: Structure, Metabolism and Implication in Wound Healing. Annals of Dermatology (2010).
PONGPARIT K. & al. Moisturisers for Acne: What are their Constituents? Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2014).
GOODMAN G. & et al. The modified tower vertical filler technique for the treatment of post-acne scarring. The Australasian Journal of Dermatology (2016).
BLOMSTER S. & al. Efficacy and Safety of Acne Scar Treatment Using Nonanimal Stabilised Hyaluronic Acid Gel. Dermatologic Surgery (2018).
FRIEDMAN O. & co. Dual-plane hyaluronic acid treatment for atrophic acne scars. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).
REIS S. & al. Hyaluronic Acid: A Crucial Component in the Treatment of Inflammation. Biomolecules (2021).
