Hyaluronic Acid against Acne?

Presenting as red or white spots, sometimes painful, acne is a multifactorial inflammatory skin condition that can result from an overproduction of sebum, the accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis, or the proliferation of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes. Several active ingredients, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, help to treat it. These possess keratolytic properties that allow them to gradually remove pore blockages and promote the evacuation of sebum. Contrary to what its name might suggest, hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliant. Indeed, this active ingredient has no effect on the lipid bonds between the cells of the horny layer and therefore cannot prevent pore blockage. Furthermore, it does not appear to have any sebum-regulating or antibacterial activity.

When applied topically, hyaluronic acid has no proven effect on acne.

We can only hypothesise about the potential benefits of hyaluronic acid in the case of inflammatory acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties. These properties have been highlighted in various in vitro studies and clinical trials conducted with patients suffering from inflammatory dermatosis (eczema, psoriasis, rosacea...). By inhibiting the activation of the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), it prevents the release of inflammatory cytokines, which are responsible for redness and irritation. However, we cannot conclude that this mechanism of action allows hyaluronic acid to alleviate acne, as no study has yet proven this.

Please note : Although hyaluronic acid does not appear to act directly on acne, this active ingredient is widely used to formulate moisturising creams designed to accompany drying acne treatments. Non-comedogenic and possessing a strong hygroscopic power, it alleviates dryness and improves skin comfort and the quality of life of patients.