How to take care of the skin during a purge?

The skin purge is a phenomenon that occurs when a new skincare product, rich in active ingredients that stimulate cellular renewal such as retinol, glycolic acid or azelaic acid, is incorporated into the skincare routine. Indeed, by accelerating the skin regeneration process, these molecules allow the deeper cells to rise to the surface more quickly, bringing with them any imperfections that were previously invisible. Without the purge, the skin would have expelled impurities more slowly, one by one over time.

The skin purge is primarily recognised by three factors:

• The purge occurs after the introduction of certain exfoliating actives into the routine.

• The flare-up lasts between 4 and 8 weeks.

• Spots are located in areas typically affected by acne.

Once you have confirmed that your spots are indeed due to a purge and not an acne breakout or a allergic reaction, it is beneficial to support your skin during this challenging transition by adopting certain habits. Here are some tips for doing so:

• Continue to use the skincare product responsible for the purge.

  Once the product causing the purge has been identified, it may be tempting to stop using it to halt the outbreak of spots. However, this would be a mistake, as the purge induced by the treatment is specifically designed to expel all imperfections at once so they do not appear later and the skin can regain its clarity. Interrupting the treatment would be like taking a step backwards and would only delay the emergence of spots. Therefore, it is important to continue using the treatment. Once the cellular renewal is complete, you will notice all the benefits it has brought to your skin.

• Refrain from popping or touching the spots.

  In instances of skin purging, or any other situation where blemishes appear, some individuals struggle to resist touching or attempting to pop them. However, it is strongly advised to avoid doing so, as this could lead to inflammation or potentially permanent scarring on the face. It is better to let imperfections heal naturally, your skin will thank you in the long run.

• Avoid incorporating additional exfoliants into your routine.

  If you are using exfoliating or keratolytic agents that cause a skin purge, it is recommended to refrain from simultaneously applying other actives with similar effects. This could trigger excessive skin cell renewal and cause skin irritations, in addition to potentially exacerbating imperfections and slowing their healing process.

• Continue to properly hydrate your skin.

  While purging is beneficial for eventually eliminating blemishes, it tends to weaken the skin. To increase its resilience against inflammation, maintain its hydration balance, and strengthen the overall skin barrier, it is necessary to apply a moisturising cream or balm daily. Products containing hyaluronic acid and glycerine are particularly beneficial for caring for dehydrated and sensitised skin. Treatments incorporating soothing ingredients such as panthenol or chamomile, capable of reducing redness and inflammation, are also recommended.

• Protecting the skin from UV rays.

  During a skin purge, the skin can be particularly sensitive and vulnerable to the sun's ultraviolet rays, especially if the skincare products used are based on retinol or alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). Sun protection, useful on a daily basis, then becomes crucial. Moreover, applying a sun care product every day when the skin is prone to blemishes can help to limit the risks of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, a phenomenon that occurs when skin damaged by inflammation is exposed to the sun.

• MISRA S. & al. Acne: a prevalent skin condition. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research (2021).

• GAJBHIYE S. & al. Review article: skincare through the process of exfoliation. International Journal of Current Science (2022).