How to read the label of a skincare product?

All cosmetic products are required to display their composition on their packaging. The labelling of beauty care products is strictly regulated by the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) or International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients in English. This regulation governs both the care products distributed in Europe and the United States, as well as in other countries (such as Japan or Canada). In accordance with the INCI regulation, brands are obliged to display a complete list of the ingredients used, established in descending order based on their quantity. Thus, the first ingredient named makes up the majority of the care product while the last ingredients are present only in minute quantities. Furthermore, ingredients are always named in Latin for natural products (like water) or those derived from plants or in English for chemical substances.

As a precaution, it is advisable to avoid skincare products containing potentially toxic, non-ecological or carcinogenic substances. These include, but are not limited to:

• Parabens which are chemical preservatives. However, many scientists assert that they would be highly allergenic and responsible for cancer. They can be recognised by looking for words ending in "-zoate" such as parahydroxybenzoate, or words containing "paraben" like butylparaben, propylparaben, sodium butylparaben, sodium propylparaben, potassium butylparaben and potassium propylparaben.

• Regarding silicones that pose no health risks, they are, however, significant pollutants to the environment and also tend to clog pores. They can be identified by words ending in "-cone", "-one", or "-xane".

• Regarding PEG or PPG, used as thickeners, emulsifiers or humectants, these are substances derived from petrochemicals and therefore pollutants.

• Paraffins and mineral oils , derived from petrochemicals, are suspected of clogging the skin's pores and being comedogenic.

• Various foaming agents, plasticisers or fixatives such as phthalates or sulphates which are accused of being endocrine disruptors.

• Regarding formaldehyde, a derivative of formalin, which could cause irritations and potentially lead to cancer.

• Some preservatives such as the phenoxyethanol, the chlorphenesin and the methylisothiazolinone, some of which are discouraged due to their irritating properties and others are suspected of promoting the onset of cancer.

Therefore, reading labels carefully allows you to identify the constituent ingredients, as well as the method of application of the skincare product, but also to spot any potentially risky ingredients. To reinforce your choice, you can refer to environmental certifications and various labels that should also be listed on the packaging.