How to get rid of sebaceous filaments?

Often mistaken for blackheads, sebaceous filaments are natural, hair-like structures primarily found in areas of the face that produce the most sebum, such as the nose and forehead. An integral part of the sebaceous follicles, they originate in the skin's pores and serve to help transport sebum to the skin's surface, in order to maintain a good level of hydration. Sebaceous filaments consist of a mixture of sebum, dead cells, and bacteria. Although everyone has sebaceous filaments, they are more common in combination to oily skin types, where the pores are larger. Indeed, they become visible when the pores fill with sebum and expand.

Once extracted, a sebaceous filament quickly makes its return to the face, in approximately four weeks.

Non-hazardous and non-pathogenic, sebaceous filaments do not need to be removed. In fact, it is even advised against manually eliminating them by squeezing the area as this could trigger skin inflammation and promote bacterial proliferation within the weakened pore, leading to the eruption of a spot. There are relatively few scientific studies on sebaceous filaments and methods for their removal. However, one can mention the case of a 16-year-old girl who had numerous highly visible sebaceous filaments all over her face. To tackle this, her dermatologist prescribed her a 0.025% tretinoin cream to apply daily. After 6 months, her face no longer showed any traces of sebaceous filaments.

As a reminder, tretinoin is a form of vitamin A. Its effectiveness is based on its ability to stimulate the follicular epithelium, enabling it to increase the proliferation of non-cohesive keratinised cells. These free, horny cells are easily evacuated with the sebum on the skin's surface, thus preventing the formation of a cornified plug. Furthermore, tretinoin has keratolytic properties, meaning it promotes the detachment and removal of dead cells. However, while tretinoin may be effective in dealing with sebaceous filaments, it is important to note that it is a medicinal substance available only on prescription. It is used to treat acne, flat warts, and certain keratinisation disorders resistant to emollients.

In cases of highly visible and numerous sebaceous filaments, tretinoin could thus be used occasionally on medical prescription by a dermatologist. For individuals who sometimes have a few sebaceous filaments, there aren't really any solutions for eliminating them. It is only possible to diminish their appearance by adopting a skincare routine that is tailored to control sebum production and minimise pore congestion:

• Do not neglect facial cleansing : The first step in a nightly skincare routine, facial cleansing is essential for removing impurities, as well as sebum accumulated throughout the day. For this, it is important to use gentle products that respect the skin, in order not to provoke a reactive hyperseborrhea. Among the active mattifying ingredients beneficial for skin prone to sebaceous filaments, we can mention azelaic acid, zinc PCA, or even green tea.

• Investing in a purifying cream : To effectively combat sebaceous filaments, the use of a purifying cream can be a valuable asset. Designed to regulate sebum production and tighten dilated pores while hydrating the skin, this treatment is applied morning and evening to clean, dry skin. Light formulas, containing astringent ingredients such as clay or bamboo extract, are particularly beneficial for absorbing excess sebum and helping to prevent the build-up of impurities.

• Regularly exfoliating your skin : In addition, it is recommended to carry out a gentle exfoliation once a week in order to deeply cleanse the pores and reduce sebaceous filaments. Clay masks, charcoal or fruit acids (AHA) are particularly recommended for this purpose. After the exfoliation, don't forget to apply a moisturising treatment to help the skin restore its hydrolipidic film.