How Is Licorice Root Extract Obtained?

Licorice, botanically named Glycyrrhiza glabra L., thrives in a continental climate. The main producers of this plant are Russia, China, Turkey, Bulgaria, Italy, Iraq and Iran. To obtain the licorice root extract commonly used in cosmetics, several steps are required:

1. The roots are harvested in spring and fall from plants that are at least three years old;

2. They are then cleaned and freed from buds and roots;

3. The roots are either dried slowly in a dry place in the shade for several months, or quickly in the sun or in the oven (in special ovens at low temperature);

4. Finally, they are peeled and ground into powder.

First of all, licorice root extract is often compared to hydroquinone because of its pigment-regulating properties. It has the advantage of being gentler and more skin-friendly than hydroquinone, which has been banned by EU regulation in all cosmetic products since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential. The effectiveness of licorice root extract is due to the presence of glabridin, a powerful depigmenting agent known for its brightening effect and its action against pigmentation spots. It is able to inhibit tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. The equation is simple: less melanin means less pigment, fewer brown spots and a more even complexion.

Secondly, licorice root extract helps to effectively limit skin aging caused by oxidative stress. Indeed, the flavonoids contained in it specifically neutralize the superoxide anion called O₂.- and prevent it from reacting and thus degrading the healthy components of the skin (lipids, proteins, DNA). Thus, this herbal agent protects the skin from accelerated aging caused by external factors such as UV rays, pollution, smoking, etc.

Finally, glycyrrhizic acid contained in licorice root extract is a powerful anti-inflammatory. It relieves irritated skin, redness as well as itching. It is especially effective for atopic skin. It is often referred to as a natural cortisone: It effectively relieves eczema.