Licorice extract is increasingly present in skincare due to its antioxidant, brightening, and soothing benefits. This ingredient is derived from the roots of the licorice plant, a member of the Fabaceae family, a relative of wisteria, clovers, and peas.
How is liquorice extract obtained?
Summary
Published on October 4, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
The liquorice extract and its method of acquisition.
Liquorice, botanically known as Glycyrrhiza glabra L., thrives in a continental climate. The main producers of this plant are Russia, China, Turkey, Bulgaria, Italy, Iraq and Iran. To obtain the liquorice extract commonly used in cosmetics, several steps are necessary:
The roots are harvested in the spring and autumn, from plants that are at least 3 years old;
They are then cleaned and stripped of their buds and radicles;
The roots are dried either slowly, in dry places, in the shade for several months, or quickly in the sun or in a kiln (in special low-temperature ovens);
Finally, they are peeled and ground into powder.
The extract of liquorice and its virtues for the skin.
Firstly, liquorice extract is often compared to hydroquinone due to its pigment-regulating nature. It has the advantage of being gentler and better tolerated by the skin than hydroquinone, which has been banned in all cosmetic products by European regulation since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential. The effectiveness of liquorice extract is due to the presence of glabridin, a powerful depigmenting agent known for its brightening and anti-spot properties. It is capable of inhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means fewer pigments, fewer brown spots, and a more uniform complexion.
Next, the liquorice extract effectively limits skin ageing due to oxidative stress. Indeed, the flavonoids it contains specifically neutralise the superoxide anion, denoted as O₂.⁻, preventing it from reacting and thus degrading the healthy constituents of the skin (lipids, proteins, DNA). Therefore, this plant-based active ingredient protects the skin from accelerated ageing caused by external aggressions such as UV rays, pollution, smoking...
Finally, the glycyrrhizic acid found in liquorice extract is a powerful anti-inflammatory agent. It soothes irritated skin, redness, and itching. It is particularly effective on atopic skin. It is often referred to as natural cortisone: it effectively relieves eczema.
In which Typology skincare products can one find liquorice extract?
The anti-mark serum is a formula designed to fade the appearance of acne scars and pigmentation spots. Liquorice extract is combined with other brightening and repairing active ingredients, such as gluconolactone from the P.H.A. category and extract of Centella asiatica. It is applied only in the evening, locally, only on the affected areas.
Sources:
CAEL D. Contribution to the study of liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.): its therapeutic and dietary uses. Thesis from H. POINCARE University - Nancy (2009).
SARKAR R. & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery(2013).
FRATTARUOLO L. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes: identification of licoflavanone as a modulator of NF-kB/MAPK pathway. Antioxidants (Basel) (2019).
