Five tips to slow the skin ageing process.

The sun is one of the main accelerators of skin ageing. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet rays results in a progressive breakdown of the skin’s support structures. UVB, primarily absorbed by the epidermis, induce genotoxic damage by altering keratinocyte DNA. This damage disorganises collagen fibres and stimulates their premature degradation. UVA, being more penetrating, reach the dermis and activate the expression of matrix metalloproteinases, enzymes responsible for degrading collagen and elastin, which weakens the extracellular matrix and results in progressive skin laxity. In parallel, UVA and UVB generate an excessive production of free radicals, which exacerbates the cellular oxidative stress .

To limit these effects, the sun protection must become a daily routine, in every season. UV rays penetrate clouds and remain active even in winter or in the shade, making the application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen covering both UVA and UVB essential. In winter, a cream with a SPF 30 provides a good balance between efficacy and comfort of use, while SPF 50 is indispensable in summer. The effectiveness of this measure was confirmed by a 2016 study on 32 volunteers aged 40 to 55. These participants applied an SPF 30 sunscreen daily for one year. At the end of the study, a dermatologist observed significant improvements in the signs of photoageing, notably a more even skin tone, reduced pigmentation spots and firmer, better-hydrated skin.

The skin barrier corresponds to the outermost layer of the skin, mainly composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids), together with the hydrolipid film, a mixture of water and sebum on the epidermal surface. It acts as a true protective shield, limiting water loss and the penetration of irritants, allergens and pollutants. This barrier function plays an essential role in the balance of the skin. Indeed, a skin barrier that is impaired disrupts cellular cohesion and promotes chronic inflammatory processes, which contribute to accelerated skin ageing.

An impairment of the skin barrier does not manifest solely as visible dryness: it is accompanied by alterations to the skin’s topography. A study conducted in 32 patients with atopic dermatitis highlighted these changes. The researchers measured several barrier function parameters (transepidermal water loss, hydration, elasticity, pH) as well as the structure of the skin surface. Compared with healthy skin, eczematous lesions exhibited double the water loss, reduced hydration and diminished elasticity. Structurally, damaged skin displayed increased wrinkling. These observations confirm that a weakened skin barrier contributes to the premature ageing of the skin.

Preserving its skin barrier therefore contributes to maintaining a more youthful complexion. The use of lipid-rich moisturisers (ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol) and humectants (glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol) helps to strengthen cellular cohesion and restore the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum. A clinical study clearly demonstrates this effect: a biphasic serum containing 17.5% plant oils, 61% water, 2% panthenol, 2.7% glycerine and hyaluronic acid was tested on eight volunteers over 14 days. The researchers observed a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in stratum corneum hydration in the group using the serum, while no notable improvement was observed in the control group.

Suitable cosmetic formulations combining an oil phase and an aqueous phase to deliver both humectants and nourishing lipids therefore help to care for the skin barrier.

A suitable skincare routine is essential for slowing skin ageing, as it helps to protect the skin from external aggressors and stimulate its regenerative mechanisms. Among the most studied active ingredients are the antioxidants and retinoids. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, or niacinamide, which neutralise the free radicals produced by UV radiation, pollution and cellular oxidative stress. They thus prevent lipid oxidation, collagen degradation and the formation of pigmented spots. The retinoids, such as retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid, have antioxidant properties and stimulate cell renewal and collagen synthesis. By regulating keratinocyte differentiation and strengthening the dermal matrix, they help to diminish wrinkles and preserve skin firmness.

Antioxidants: solid scientific evidence for firmer skin.

The benefits of vitamin C in managing photoageing are well documented. A clinical study involving 20 women aged 30 to 50 years who were regularly exposed to UV rays assessed the efficacy of a skincare treatment containing vitamin C combined with a recombinant peptide (SH-polypeptide-10). After two weeks of daily application, the researchers observed asignificant improvement in periocular wrinkles and a visible reduction in pigmentation. These findings confirm that vitamin C acts on multiple levels to enhance skin radiance and prevent photoageing.

Retinoids: scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness.

Retinoids are now among the most extensively studied active compounds for their ability to reduce the signs of ageing. The study conducted by Majmudar and his team provides compelling evidence. Forty-one women aged 35 to 55 applied a serum containing 0.1% of retinol every other day for two weeks, then daily for ten weeks. At the end of the twelve-week period, confocal microscopy analyses revealed an average increase of 46.28% in epidermal thickness, reflecting a boost in cell turnover. The clinical results also showed a significant reduction in wrinkles, illustrating the efficacy of retinoids in preventing skin ageing.

Diet plays a role in preventing skin ageing in addition to its importance for overall health. A large-scale study conducted in the Netherlands between 2010 and 2014 examined the links between dietary habits and the presence of facial wrinkles. The researchers analysed standardised photographs of 4,649 participants, of whom 2,753 were included in the final analysis. Nutrient intake was assessed using a questionnaire, and the results were adjusted for various factors such as age, sex, smoking status and body mass index (BMI).

The study’s conclusions appear to indicate that skin ageing is influenced by lifestyle and nutritional choices.

While total energy intake had no direct effect on the presence of wrinkles, adherence to a healthy diet—as measured by a high score on the Dutch Healthy Diet Index (DHDI)—was associated with a significant reduction in wrinkles in women (-4.19%). In men, however, the observed difference did not reach statistical significance.

Researchers suggest that certain foods may influence skin structure and resilience, notably due to their high levels of antioxidants, unsaturated fatty acids and essential micronutrients. Although these findings should be interpreted with caution, other studies point in the same direction: a diet rich in red berries, green vegetables or dark chocolate, recognised sources of antioxidants, is frequently associated with skin that is more resistant to oxidative stress and shows fewer signs of ageing.

True or false? Drinking plenty of water helps slow down skin ageing.

This is a common misconception. Current studies show no solid clinical evidence indicating that increased water intake prevents the appearance of wrinkles. Good overall hydration certainly helps to keep skin more supple, but simply drinking more water is not sufficient to slow down skin ageing.

Tobacco, pollution, lack of sleep... are all factors that put stress on the body, particularly the skin, and accelerate its ageing. In short, like UV rays, tobacco and pollution produce oxidative stress and chronic inflammation within skin cells, which compromises the integrity of the dermal extracellular matrix, directly responsible for skin firmness. As for lack of sleep and psychological stress, they activate the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, leading to a sustained release of cortisol, adrenaline and noradrenaline, molecules that also promote systemic inflammation and free radical production.

To mitigate these effects and slow skin ageing, we recommend adopting a protective lifestyle, which involves avoiding tobacco, limiting exposure to pollutants (notably by cleansing the skin each evening), maintaining a balanced diet and ensuring at least seven hours of restorative sleep each night.

• RAMOS-E-SILVA M. & al. Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology (2013).

• MAJMUDAR G. & al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2015).

• SOUTHALL M. & al. Daily use of a facial broad spectrum sunscreen over one-year significantly improves clinical evaluation of photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2016).

• NIJSTEN T. & al. A healthy diet in women is associated with less facial wrinkles in a large Dutch population-based cohort. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2019).

• JUARRANZ A. & al. Environmental stressors on skin aging – Mechanistic insights. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2019).

• TONG T. & al. Boosting the photoaged skin: The potential role of dietary components. Nutrients (2021).

• GRÖNNIGERA E. & al. A biomimetic combination of actives enhances skin hydration and barrier function via modulation of gene expression: Results of two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2022).

• MONTERO-VILCHEZ T. & al. Skin barrier function and microtopography in patients with atopic dermatitis. Journal of Clinical Medicine (2024).

• KIM B.-G. Effects of vitamin C and SH-polypeptide-10 cosmetic ingredients on wrinkle improvement and skin whitening. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology (2024).