Profile: Xanthan Gum
Commonly known as: Xanthan Gum (I.N.C.I.), Xanthan gum.
Botanical name: Zea mays L.
Extraction process: The process involves the pure culture fermentation of a medium containing corn syrup glucose by non-genetically modified bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris. The fermented mixture is then pasteurised before being placed in a filter and centrifuged. Finally, it is dried and ground.
Family: Poaceae.
Extracted part of the plant: Seeds.
Cultivation area, origin: Originally from Central America, it is now cultivated all over the world.
Blooming: From mid-July to early August.
Origin, provenance: Austria.
Phytochemical composition: Repetitive unit of pentasaccharide with a side chain composed of a glucuronic acid residue between two units of mannose.
Sensory properties: Appearance: Powder; Colour: White; Odour: Neutral.
Physical properties: Molecular mass: 933.7 g/mol; Soluble in water; Insoluble in oil and ethanol; Recommended dosage: between 0.1 and 1% in a cosmetic formula.
Concerns: Thickening agent, gelling agent, film-forming agent, emulsion stabiliser, moisturiser.
Effect: All types of skin and hair.
Details
Properties
Emulsifying, stabilising: Enables the suspension of solid particles and the attainment of a stable and homogeneous emulsion over time at low concentration (< 0.5%) due to its elastic properties;
Thickening agent: Creating high viscosity textures by reacting with water molecules;
Gelling Agent: Adding consistency to preparations containing a water phase to facilitate its grasp and application on the skin or hair;
Moisturising: Forming a film on the skin's surface to limit water evaporation and prevent dehydration.
Applications
Facial Care (exfoliating masks, creams, serums, toning lotions, cleansing gels, eye contour gels, face masks);
Body Care (balms/creams/body lotions, sun care, cooling gels, exfoliating jellies/gels);
Haircare (shampoos, conditioners, masks, lotions, scalp scrubs, styling gels);
Hygiene (toothpastes, deodorants, shower gels, shower oils, hand sanitisers);
Makeups (mascaras, foundations, blushes, eyeshadows).
Method of Preservation
Store in a dry place at room temperature, protected from moisture and light.
Contraindications, usage precautions
Xanthan gum presents no contraindications for topical application. A 2016 study by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) on microbial polysaccharide gums, which includes xanthan gum, demonstrated the safety of the ingredient.
From a legal perspective, xanthan gum is not regulated in Europe. However, in the United States, the FDA limits its use to 6% of the total ingredients in cosmetics.
However, avoid inhaling the powder or any contact with the eyes. This is a powdery product to be used away from any source of ventilation.
