Xanthan Gum: Properties and Cosmetic Uses.

Profile: Xanthan Gum

Commonly known as: Xanthan Gum (I.N.C.I.), Xanthan gum.

Botanical name: Zea mays L.

Extraction process: The process involves the pure culture fermentation of a medium containing corn syrup glucose by non-genetically modified bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris. The fermented mixture is then pasteurised before being placed in a filter and centrifuged. Finally, it is dried and ground.

Family: Poaceae.

Extracted part of the plant: Seeds.

Cultivation area, origin: Originally from Central America, it is now cultivated all over the world.

Blooming: From mid-July to early August.

Origin, provenance: Austria.

Phytochemical composition: Repetitive unit of pentasaccharide with a side chain composed of a glucuronic acid residue between two units of mannose.

Sensory properties: Appearance: Powder; Colour: White; Odour: Neutral.

Physical properties: Molecular mass: 933.7 g/mol; Soluble in water; Insoluble in oil and ethanol; Recommended dosage: between 0.1 and 1% in a cosmetic formula.

Concerns: Thickening agent, gelling agent, film-forming agent, emulsion stabiliser, moisturiser.

Effect: All types of skin and hair.

Properties

Emulsifying, stabilising: Enables the suspension of solid particles and the attainment of a stable and homogeneous emulsion over time at low concentration (< 0.5%) due to its elastic properties;
Thickening agent: Creating high viscosity textures by reacting with water molecules;
Gelling Agent: Adding consistency to preparations containing a water phase to facilitate its grasp and application on the skin or hair;
Moisturising: Forming a film on the skin's surface to limit water evaporation and prevent dehydration.

Applications

Facial Care (exfoliating masks, creams, serums, toning lotions, cleansing gels, eye contour gels, face masks);
Body Care (balms/creams/body lotions, sun care, cooling gels, exfoliating jellies/gels);
Haircare (shampoos, conditioners, masks, lotions, scalp scrubs, styling gels);
Hygiene (toothpastes, deodorants, shower gels, shower oils, hand sanitisers);
Makeups (mascaras, foundations, blushes, eyeshadows).

Mark-Fading Serum 14% PHA + Centella Asiatica — Typology

Anti-marks

Mark-Fading Serum L64 — 14% PHA + Centella Asiatica — from £25.50

Serum for Dark Circles and Bags 5% Caffeine + 5% Niacinamide — Typology

Best-seller

Serum for Dark Circles and Bags L33 — 5% Caffeine + 5% Niacinamide — from £18.50

FIRMING

Firming Overnight Mask P73 — Organic Prickly Pear Oil — £40.90

Discontinued

Peeling mask — with organic red fruit acids — £31.50

Discontinued

Purifying Mask P72 — Charcoal + Organic Nettle — £29.50

Scalp Scrub 5% PHA + Jojoba Beads — Typology

Exfoliating

Scalp Scrub R52 — 5% PHA + Jojoba Beads — £21.35

Method of Preservation

Store in a dry place at room temperature, protected from moisture and light.

Contraindications, usage precautions

Xanthan gum presents no contraindications for topical application. A 2016 study by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) on microbial polysaccharide gums, which includes xanthan gum, demonstrated the safety of the ingredient.

From a legal perspective, xanthan gum is not regulated in Europe. However, in the United States, the FDA limits its use to 6% of the total ingredients in cosmetics.

However, avoid inhaling the powder or any contact with the eyes. This is a powdery product to be used away from any source of ventilation.

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide naturally produced by the action of a bacterium. It was discovered in the late 1950s in the research laboratories of the American Department of Agriculture during research into the industrial applications of microbial biopolymers. In-depth research revealed that the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, found on cabbages, produces a high molecular weight polysaccharide. This polysaccharide protects the bacterium from heat or other microorganisms. Xanthan gum is also used in the food industry as a food additive under the code E415 to enhance the taste, flavour, texture, or even the preservation of the food product.