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Profile: Xanthan Gum

Commonly known as: Xanthan Gum (I.N.C.I.), Xanthan gum.
Botanical name: Zea mays L.
Extraction process: The process involves the pure culture fermentation of a medium containing corn syrup glucose by non-genetically modified bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris. The fermented mixture is then pasteurised before being placed in a filter and centrifuged. Finally, it is dried and ground.
Family: Poaceae.
Part of the plant extracted: Seeds.
Location: Originally from Central America, it is now cultivated all over the world.
Flowering: From mid-July to early August.
Provenance, origin: Austria.
Phytochemical composition: Repetitive unit of pentasaccharide with a side chain composed of a glucuronic acid residue between two units of mannose.
Sensorial properties: Appearance: Powder; Colour: White; Odour: Neutral.
Physical characteristics: Molecular mass: 933.7 g/mol; Soluble in water; Insoluble in oil and ethanol; Recommended dosage: between 0.1 and 1% in a cosmetic formula.
Benefits: Thickening agent, gelling agent, film-forming agent, emulsion stabiliser, moisturiser.
Concerns: All types of skin and hair.

Details

Properties

  • Emulsifying, stabilising: Enables the suspension of solid particles and the attainment of a stable and homogeneous emulsion over time at low concentration (< 0.5%) due to its elastic properties;

  • Thickening agent: Creating high viscosity textures by reacting with water molecules;

  • Gelling Agent: Adding consistency to preparations containing a water phase to facilitate its grasp and application on the skin or hair;

  • Moisturising: Forming a film on the skin's surface to limit water evaporation and prevent dehydration.

Applications

  • Facial Care (exfoliating masks, creams, serums, toning lotions, cleansing gels, eye contour gels, face masks);

  • Body Care (balms/creams/body lotions, sun care, cooling gels, exfoliating jellies/gels);

  • Haircare (shampoos, conditioners, masks, lotions, scalp scrubs, styling gels);

  • Hygiene (toothpastes, deodorants, shower gels, shower oils, hand sanitisers);

  • Makeups (mascaras, foundations, blushes, eyeshadows).

Method of Preservation

Store in a dry place at room temperature, protected from moisture and light.

Contraindications, usage precautions

Xanthan gum presents no contraindications for topical application. A 2016 study by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) on microbial polysaccharide gums, which includes xanthan gum, demonstrated the safety of the ingredient.

From a legal perspective, xanthan gum is not regulated in Europe. However, in the United States, the FDA limits its use to 6% of the total ingredients in cosmetics.

However, avoid inhaling the powder or any contact with the eyes. This is a powdery product to be used away from any source of ventilation.

Find out more

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide naturally produced by the action of a bacterium. It was discovered in the late 1950s in the research laboratories of the American Department of Agriculture during research into the industrial applications of microbial biopolymers. In-depth research revealed that the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, found on cabbages, produces a high molecular weight polysaccharide. This polysaccharide protects the bacterium from heat or other microorganisms. Xanthan gum is also used in the food industry as a food additive under the code E415 to enhance the taste, flavour, texture, or even the preservation of the food product.