Red marine algae are predominantly found in Europe, the Atlantic, the English Channel, and the North Sea. In cosmetics, red algae extract is an ingredient commonly used to thicken formulas and give them a gel-like consistency. However, it also has moisturising properties for the skin. Let's focus on this multi-functional plant compound.
All about red algae.
Summary
Published on October 2, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
Themes:
What are red algae?
Thered algae or Rhodophytes belong to a large taxon of marine algae that encompasses several species. Their colour is attributed to their pigment composition, characterised by the presence of a single type ofchlorophyll. They predominantly grow on the Atlantic coast and are harvested on beaches. There are several varieties of red algae: the Chondrus crispus, the Porphyra conchocelis, the Palmaria palmata...
In skincare, but also in the food industry, the carrageenan is a sulphated polysaccharide extracted from red seaweeds that is used to thicken formulas and give them a gel-like consistency. Traditionally extracted from the species Chondrus crispus (Irish moss), carrageenan is now predominantly derived from the species Kappaphycus alvarezii and Eucheuma denticulatum.
The benefits of red algae in cosmetic care.
In skincare and haircare, red algae is often used to thicken formulas. Indeed, red algae extract contains carrageenans, natural polysaccharides composed of sulphated D-galactose residues. When in contact with water, these biopolymers unfold and form a gelified network. As a natural thickening agent, red algae extract is often used in organic cosmetics to replace certain synthetic gelling agents such as carbomers.
Beyond its primarily functional capacity, red algae brings benefits to the skin. Its moisturising power allows it to retain water in the superficial layers of the skin, thereby reducing insensible water loss. When applied externally, red algae extract combats the tightness often associated with skin dryness, and prevents the appearance of dehydration fine lines.
Furthermore, red algae extract is capable of stimulating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. As a reminder, hyaluronic acid is a biomolecule predominantly produced by the dermal fibroblasts that ensures skin hydration and gives it its plump and rejuvenated appearance.
Over the years, not only does its content decrease but its quality also changes. Each decade, we lose about 6% of hyaluronic acid.
This drastic decrease leads to an atrophy of the fat pockets located deep within the dermis, which are responsible for the emergence of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin's surface. Therefore, stimulating its synthesis allows for the maintenance of plump skin for as long as possible.
Furthermore, red algae extract limits imperfections on the skin's surface. Indeed, studies have demonstrated thebactericidal activity of carrageenan against the Staphylococcus epidermidis and theEnterococcus faecalis, two microorganisms implicated in the development of acne and associated inflammatory reactions.
Finally, the red algae extract helps to stimulate the synthesis of ceramides which strengthens the skin's barrier and limits insensible water loss. As a reminder, ceramides are lipids organised into dense and structured layers that form the intercellular cement.
What are the contraindications of red algae for topical application?
The red algae is a compound that is well tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive ones. It is not contraindicated for young children or for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women. Non-photosensitising, a skincare product enriched with red algae extract can be applied morning and evening, on clean and dry skin.
In which skincare products can one find red algae?
As a natural thickening agent, red algae extract is present in many skincare products such as creams, gels, shampoos, body lotions, balms and so on...
In the plumping serum by Typology, red algae extract is combined with polyglutamic acid to provide dual-level hydration for the skin: the red algae extract is capable of acting deeply and stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid, while the polyglutamic acid forms a protective film on the skin's surface to combat dehydration.
This product should be applied morning and evening, onto clean and dry skin. It is particularly recommended for dry skin and/or to prevent dehydration fine lines as well as early wrinkles.
Sources
DOTY M.S. & co. IR Studies on carrageenan from ahnfeltia concinna, a marine red alga. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (1975).
KANAAN H. M. & et al. Anticoagulant and antibacterial properties of polysaccharides from the red algae Corallina, collected from the Lebanese coast. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science (2014).
HUANG N. & al. Potential use of seaweed bioactive compounds in skincare: A Review. Marine Drugs (2019).
