Originally extracted from willow bark, salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with recognized keratolytic and sebum-regulating properties. It is particularly recommended for skin with imperfections and dull, tired complexions. But does salicylic acid help with pigmentation disorders like hyperpigmentation?
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Does Salicylic Acid Help Hyperpigmentation or Other Pigmentation Disorders?
Summary
Published June 15, 2022,
updated on October 4, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
3 min read
What Are Skin Pigmentation Disorders?
Pigmentation disorders are problems of skin pigmentation, i.e., hypopigmentation, depigmentation and hyperpigmentation.
Hypopigmentation corresponds to a disorder manifested by a reduction in melanin.
Depigmentation refers to the complete absence of melanin on the surface, leaving a white patch.
Hyperpigmentation, on the other hand, concerns excessive melanin production.
These spots can appear on the hands, face, décolleté or arms, but can also be diffuse. There are several types of hyperpigmentation:
“Age spots” or “sun spots”, which result from prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun, combined with a slowdown in cell renewal;
“Pregnancy mask”, “chloasma” or “melasma”, due to hormonal fluctuations that stimulate melanocytes and thus the overproduction of melanin;
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which occurs after trauma or injury, and is common in people with acne-prone skin;
Freckles, of genetic origin, generally associated with fair skin.
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Salicylic Acid for Hyperpigmentation: Does It Help?
Salicylic acid is one of the active ingredients classified as a beta-hydroxy acid or BHA. This ingredient in salicylic acid peels and other skin care products is suitable for all skin types, but particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone or blemish-prone skin. It is also effective against dull or uneven skin.
So, does salicylic acid help hyperpigmentation or not? In the literature, salicylic acid has been shown to be useful only against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks. Salicylic acid peels and products are keratolytic. They stimulate cell renewal, thereby reducing the appearance of these marks. Its mode of action is based on the destruction of intercellular lipids covalently bound to the keratinized envelope surrounding keratinocytes. This leads to desquamation of the stratum corneum and activation of basal keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
These Studies show very high concentrations of salicylic acid (between 20% and 30%), far in excess of authorized levels. As a reminder, European regulations limit the incorporation of salicylic acid in a non-rinse-off skincare product to 2%.
Sources
KUNDU R. V. & al. Effectiveness, safety and effect on quality of life of topical salicylic acid peels for treatment of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in dark skin Dermatologic Surgery (2009).
OKORO E. O. Salicylic acid peel in pigmented skin. Journal of Dermatology & Cosmetology (2018).
DEVI I. & al. Role of glycolic and salicylic acid chemical peel in the management of post-acne pigmentation: a literature review. Annals of SBV (2021).
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