Coconut oil for beard care?

Coconut oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the flesh of the coconut, rich in saturated fatty acids, particularly lauric acid. Used in cosmetics for a long time, it is valued for its enveloping texture and its good affinity with keratin fibres. Coconut oil is now widely incorporated into hair care routines and is also extending to beard care, which has both skin-related and hair-related needs.

On beard hair, coconut oil can act as a softening and protective agent. Its high lipid content enables it to form a film on the hair surface, which improves its flexibility. This can make the beard softer, shinier and easier to style, particularly when the hairs are dry or coarse. This film-forming effect also helps reduce friction between the hairs, which can limit breakage and improve the overall appearance of the beard.

Beyond the hair itself, coconut oil may also be of interest for the underlying skin, which is sometimes prone to imbalance, notably beard dandruff. Some data indeed suggest that coconut oil could influence the balance of the skin microbiome. A study conducted in 140 women, some of whom had dandruff, showed that regular application of coconut oil for 12 weeks altered the microbial composition of the scalp, notably by modulating yeasts of the genus Malassezia. These yeasts are implicated in the occurrence of dandruff. Although these results concern the scalp, they suggest that coconut oil could help to rebalance the cutaneous ecosystem beneath the beard.

Furthermore, coconut oil has anti-inflammatory properties, partly linked to its fatty acid composition. It may therefore help to soothe sensations of discomfort, such as itching or irritation, which are common during beard growth or in cases of dry skin. By forming a protective film on the surface of the skin, it can also reduce external aggressions and improve skin comfort.

However, these benefits need to be qualified. Coconut oil is a rich, occlusive oil that can easily weigh down the hairs and leave a greasy finish, especially if applied in excessive amounts. On certain skin types, particularly combination to oily skin or skin prone to blemishes, it may also promote pore blockage beneath the beard, and therefore the formation of comedones.

While coconut oil may have potential benefits for the beard, its use should therefore remain moderate and be considered on a case-by-case basis, according to skin type and beard type.

To benefit from the softening and protective properties of coconut oil on the beard, it is advisable to use it two to three times per week.

• To begin with, we recommend that you dilute coconut oil in a lighter vegetable oil, such as jojoba oil, argan oil or even grape seed oil, in order to limit its occlusive effect. For example, you might aim for a concentration of 10 to 30% coconut oil, corresponding to one spoonful of coconut oil for seven to nine spoonfuls of another vegetable oil.

• After combing your beard, a step that facilitates the application, you can take a few drops of the mixture in your hands to apply it over the whole of your beard.

• Leave on for about twenty minutes before rinsing and cleansing your beard using a mild shampoo and lukewarm water.

• You can then gently dry your beard with a towel and detangle it with a brush.

• EVANGELISTA M. T. P. & al. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• JIANG H. & al. Penetration of oils into hair. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2024).

• KATHURIA D. & al. Cosmeceutical applications of natural oils and fats. In Plant Metabolites as Cosmeceuticals (2024).

• GEW L. T. & al. A comprehensive review of plant-based cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil): Chemical and biological properties and their cosmeceutical applications. ACS Omega (2024).