Cosmetic coconut oil: what side effects?

What are the potential dangers of coconut oil?

Natural and widely acclaimed, coconut oil has become a fixture in numerous skincare regimens. Yet its high concentration of saturated fatty acids also raises certain scientific concerns. If used improperly, it can induce unwanted side effects. What are the potential hazards of coconut oil in cosmetics? Find out what you need to know before incorporating it into your routine.

Published on June 10, 2022, updated on January 29, 2026, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading

A concise scientific overview of coconut oil.

The coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) is an iconic tropical palm native to the coastal regions of Southeast Asia, East Africa and the Pacific islands. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine, nutrition and personal care. The coconut, protected by a fibrous husk, contains a white, lipid-rich flesh from which coconut oil is extracted. Depending on the production method (cold-pressing of fresh or dried kernel), one distinguishes in particular virgin coconut oil and copra oil, which exhibit slightly different sensory and nutritional profiles.

Cocotier (a) et noix de coco (b). — Coconut palm (a) and coconut (b).
Source: PUTRI E. P. Renewable energy: Charcoal briquettes from coconut shells. Physics and Mechanics of New Materials and Their Applications (2024).

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In cosmetics, the coconut oil is listed under the INCI name Cocos Nucifera Oil. It is characterised by a composition predominantly made up of saturated fatty acids, notably lauric acid (approximately 45–50%), but also myristic, palmitic and capric acids. This lipid richness gives it a solid texture at room temperature and a strong occlusive effect. When applied to the skin or hair, coconut oil is valued for its nourishing, emollient and protective properties, particularly on dry areas or damaged hair fibres.

Coconut oil: adverse effects to anticipate?

Coconut oil does not pose any specific problem for sensitive skin, but it is primarily suspected of promoting the development of imperfections in some individuals.

If one focuses solely on cutaneous tolerance, coconut oil is overall well tolerated by the skin, including sensitive skin types. Its simple lipid composition, free from known irritant or sensitising molecules, accounts for this good tolerance. In practice, it can be used safely by pregnant women, young children, or by skin prone to atopic eczema.

This good tolerance is confirmed by several standardised dermatological evaluations. Phototoxicity and photosensitisation tests were conducted with 27 volunteers under controlled protocols including UVA exposure. Under these conditions, the application of coconut oil did not result in any adverse skin reaction, either immediate or delayed. No signs of irritation, discomfort, phototoxic or photoallergic reaction were observed by the dermatologists monitoring the volunteers. Other studies have also assessed the primary, cumulative and sensitising irritant potential of coconut oil using repeated patch tests. Again, the results are reassuring: no skin irritation or sensitisation was detected, even after repeated applications under a semi-occlusive dressing in 54 volunteers.

These data confirm that, from a toxicological perspective, coconut oil is a safe and well-tolerated ingredient.

The concerns raised about it do not strictly relate to its skin safety, but rather to its effects on individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, the coconut oil having a comedogenicity rating of 4/5. That said, the question of coconut oil’s comedogenicity remains fairly debated, and the available data do not all point in the same direction. From a theoretical standpoint, its high saturated fatty acid content and strongly occlusive nature suggest it could promote blockage of the pilosebaceous follicles, yet certain clinical assessments qualify this view.

As an example, a recent study assessed the comedogenic potential of virgin coconut oil in 33 volunteers with combination to oily, acne-prone skin. These volunteers applied the oil daily to their face for three weeks, and a dermatologist evaluated their seborrhoea and their number of comedones, of papules and of pustules.

The results of this study are noteworthy: no increase in sebum production or in the number of comedones, papules or pustules was observed.

Based on these observations, the authors conclude that the tested coconut oil exhibits neither comedogenic nor acne-inducing properties, even in subjects with combination to oily skin. Nevertheless, these results should be interpreted with caution. On the one hand, the sample size is limited and the follow-up period is relatively short. On the other hand, skin tolerance and comedone formation can vary considerably between individuals. Thus, even if some studies suggest that coconut oil may be well tolerated by oily skin, we advise you to exercise caution. If you have combination to oily skin, better to use lightweight vegetable oils, such as jojoba oil or hazelnut oil.

Note : In hair application, regardless of the hair type, it is preferable not to apply pure coconut oil directly to the scalp, as this will unnecessarily make it greasy. As for the lengths, it may be suitable for thick, curly or coily hair.