Shea butter or coconut oil: which should you choose for skin care?

Extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, native to West Africa, this plant-based butter is a solid lipid substance at room temperature, whose molecular complexity makes it a valuable ally in cosmetology. Its distinctive feature lies in its exceptional content of unsaponifiables, such as triterpenic alcohols and phytosterols. Rich in essential fatty acids, particularly oleic and stearic acids, shea butter has a natural affinity with human sebum, enabling it to blend with the stratum corneum to reinforce the skin barrier.

On the skin, shea butter acts as a genuine occlusive and regenerating barrier.

By forming a non-greasy protective film, it limits transepidermal water loss, thereby ensuring the maintenance of skin hydration. Beyond its nourishing power, it is known for its soothing and healing properties thanks to the presence of vitamins A and E. It helps to calm inflammation, promote the repair of damaged tissues and improve the elasticity of the epidermis. It is the treatment of choice for particularly dry or rough areas, such as the elbows or the heels, where it restores the suppleness of the skin.

Obtained by pressing the pulp of fresh coconuts, coconut oil differs from other vegetable oils due to its exceptionally high content of short-chain saturated fatty acids, and more specifically lauric acid. This fatty acid is recognised for its ability to integrate into the stratum corneum to strengthen the skin barrier.

The coconut oil acts primarily as a relipidating and protective agent.

Several studies have in fact shown that coconut oil, thanks to its nourishing and soothing effects, can help to alleviate the symptoms of eczema. In addition, the lauric acid it contains has natural antimicrobial properties, which explains its frequent use in managing mild infections, or more simply as an oral rinse. However, the effectiveness of coconut oil comes with an important characteristic: its high comedogenic index. While it is ideal for use on the body, its undiluted application to the face should be approached with caution for blemish‑prone skin, as it may clog pores.

The trade-off between these two ingredients depends essentially on how they are applied. Used in their pure state, their intrinsic properties dictate rather different uses: shea butter is more universal, whereas coconut oil requires great caution when used on the face for oily skin, due to its occlusive potential. However, as soon as they are incorporated into a cosmetic formulation, such as a cream, lotion or balm, the constraints associated with their raw state are somewhat reduced. In this context, the ingredient no longer acts alone: it is emulsified with water, and its concentration and effects are balanced by other active substances. This synergy makes it possible to benefit from the nourishing properties of coconut oil, even on the face.

If you wish to use just one or the other of these natural ingredients, here are some guidelines to help you make your choice:

• Skin prone to atopic dermatitis or suffering from eczema : Pure coconut oil is a valuable ally here. Its high lauric acid content gives it antimicrobial properties that help limit the proliferation of Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium often involved in eczema flare-ups. It soothes itching while restoring the lipid barrier.

• Mature and dry skin : Shea butter is the preferred choice. Its high content of unsaponifiables and antioxidant vitamins (A and E) helps combat free radicals and stimulates tissue regeneration. It restores elasticity to tissues that become thinner over time and provides long-lasting protection against dehydration.

• Oily or acne-prone skin : Careful monitoring is required with pure coconut oil, whose high comedogenic index may clog pores and promote the formation of comedones. For these skin profiles, pure shea butter is a safer option, as it is non-comedogenic. However, the ideal approach remains the use of light emulsions, such as fluid textures, in which these lipids are precisely dosed to provide nourishment without an occlusive effect.

• Normal to combination skin : Coconut oil is ideal for body application to maintain skin suppleness after showering. The denser shea butter is perfectly suited to targeted care on exposed and fragile areas, such as the hands, lips or nose irritated by the cold.

• EVANGELISTA M. T. P. & al. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• ALANDER J. & al. Shea butter extract for bioactive skin care. Cosmetic Toiletries (2015).

• GLAVAC N. & al. Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use: A review of clinical studies. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2022).

• KAUR G. & al. & al. Cosmeceutical applications of natural oils and fats. Plant Metabolites as Cosmeceuticals (2024).

• GEW L. T. & al. A comprehensive review of plant-based cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil): Chemical and biological properties and their cosmeceutical applications. ACS Omega (2024).