Care Products Based on Alpha-Arbutin.

Alpha-arbutin is a molecule that occurs naturally in some plants. However, it can be most commonly found in the leaves of bearberry. This substance is particularly effective in fading pigment spots that are present on the surface of the skin.

Alpha-arbutin is often referred to as natural hydroquinone due to its pigment regulating nature. When applied to the skin, its remarkable effectiveness is due to its perfect affinity for the active site of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the formation of melanin. Thus, this competitive inhibition of the active site of the enzyme blocks its activity and, consequently, melanin synthesis. After about six weeks of using a care product containing alpha-arbutin, pigment spots fade and the complexion appears even.

Alpha-arbutin also has a strong antioxidant effect. It inhibits the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen species that break down healthy skin cells and proteins and thus accelerate skin aging.

Various galenics contain alpha-arbutin and are sold on the cosmetics market today. Thus, this active ingredient can be present in creams, lotions, tonics, water-based serums or even night masks.

Products containing this active ingredient are usually intended to brighten the complexion, soften acne, sun spots or pregnancy masks, or prevent the formation of wrinkles due to repeated attacks by free radicals. To observe efficacy on the skin, the alpha-arbutin content in a cosmetic formula must be concentrated to at least 0.2%. In general, serums are the galenics that have a higher concentration of the active ingredient, and therefore of alpha-arbutin.

Note: When applied to the skin, high concentrations of alpha-arbutin may cause  irritations and/or redness. According to a 2015 report, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers the use of alpha-arbutin in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 2% in face creams and up to 0.5% in body milks to be safe for consumers.