Skincare treatments based on arbutin acid.

Arbutin acid is a molecule naturally found in certain plants, such as the ash heather, cranberry or blueberry. However, it is from the leaves of bearberry that it is possible to extract the maximum amount. This substance is particularly effective in fading pigmentation spots present on the skin's surface.

Arbutin acid is often referred to asnatural hydroquinone due to its pigment regulating nature. When applied topically, its remarkable effectiveness is due to its perfect affinity with the active site of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the formation of melanin. Thus, this competitive inhibition of the enzyme's active site blocks its activity and consequently the synthesis of melanin. After about six weeks of using a skincare product with arbutin acid, pigmentation spots fade and the complexion regains its uniformity.

Furthermore, alpha-arbutin exhibits strong activity as an antioxidant. Thus, it inhibits the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen-derived species that degrade healthy skin cells and proteins, accelerating its ageing.

Various galenic formulations contain alpha arbutin and are currently distributed in the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, toners, aqueous serums or even night masks.

Generally, the claims associated with products containing this active ingredient focus on skin brightening, reducing blemishes such as acne marks/sun spots/melasma, or even preventing the appearance of wrinkles due to repeated attacks from free radicals. To observe an effect on the skin, arbutin acid must be concentrated at a minimum of 0.2% in a cosmetic formula. Generally, serums are the formulations that have a higher concentration of active ingredients, and therefore in alpha arbutin.

Note : When applied topically at high concentrations, arbutin acid can cause mild irritation and/or redness. According to a report published in 2015, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers the use of alpha arbutin in cosmetic products to be safe for consumers at a concentration of up to2%in facial creams and up to0.5%in body lotions.

The pigmentation spot serum contains 2% alpha-arbutin acid and lemon extract, known for its brightening properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots. We advise you to apply a few drops morning and evening to your face, which should be previously cleaned and dried. Then, gently massage the face and neck in circular motions. Follow this with a moisturiser suitable for your skin type. We recommend using this serum daily for a period of at least 6 weeks in order to observe its effects.

Please note : This serum can also be applied to other parts of the body, such as the back, which is often affected by acne, or the underarms, which can darken due to repeated shaving.

• Report from the CSSC on alpha-arbutin (22nd July 2015).