Can tiger nut oil eliminate hair?

While hair removal is no longer as universally aesthetic as it once was, it remains a common practice for many individuals. Whether for comfort reasons or simply personal preference, hair elimination continues to be part of care routines. In contrast to traditional hair removal methods, some natural alternatives are gaining interest, notably tiger nut oil, known for slowing hair regrowth. This belief stems from Ayurvedic medicine, a form of non-conventional traditional medicine originating from India but also practiced in other parts of the world, such as the West. The idea that tiger nut oil could remove hair is not new. It has seen a significant rise in recent years and is notably shared on social media.

Indeed, two clinical studies, conducted by MOHAMMED G. F. and his team, suggest that tiger nut oil may possess interesting hair removal properties. This oil was extracted by hydrodistillation from the tubers of Cyperus rotundus but the exact percentage of the solution, as well as the solvent used, were not disclosed. The first study involved 91 volunteers with unwanted underarm hair. The participants were divided into two groups: 47 individuals applied tiger nut oil twice a day for six months, while the remaining 44 unknowingly used a 0.9% saline solution. In addition, the participants were asked to wax or thread every three weeks. One month after the last hair removal session, three methods were used to evaluate the results: hair count, evaluation by an independent observer, and self-assessment by the patients.

Very good results were achieved at the end of the six months. 97.9% of the volunteers in the "Tiger Nut Oil" group believed their hair growth had been reduced, compared to 0% for the "Placebo" group. Furthermore, the observer concluded a hair reduction greater than 60% in 97.9% of the participants in the "Tiger Nut Oil" group, while no positive effect was noted in the "Placebo" group. Finally, a significant decrease in the number of hairs was observed for the participants in the "Tiger Nut Oil" group. The visual results are also quite impressive.

At present, the mechanism by which tiger nut oil could potentially affect hair growth is unknown. However, hypotheses have been put forward by the group of researchers who have studied this botanical extract. One of the proposed mechanisms is based on the inhibition of hair follicle stem cells. These cells play a key role in hair regrowth. Scientists speculate that tiger nut oil could slow down the regeneration of hair follicles, thus spacing out regrowth.

Another assumption: tiger nut oil could interrupt the cell cycle. According to this hypothesis, hair follicles would experience a slowdown, or even a halt, in their division, leading to a gradual decrease in regrowth. It is also suggested that tiger nut oil could induce the apoptosis of these cells, that is, their cellular death. Finally, researchers believe it's possible that tiger nut extract could accelerate the ageing of the cells in the dermal papilla, the vascularised structure located at the base of the hair follicle that allows its supply of oxygen and nutrients. By promoting the senescence of the dermal papilla, the follicle would become less active, which could explain a lasting slowdown in hair growth.

At present, these mechanisms are merely hypotheses and have not been proven.

Regarding the molecules in tiger nut oil responsible for these potential effects, the specifics remain unclear. Studies have shown that the bioactive compounds found in tiger nut oil significantly vary depending on the plant's origin Cyperus rotundus, suggesting the existence of phytochemical varieties. Cyperene (19.2-30.9%) and α-cyperone (4.5-25.2%) were the most abundant constituents of the oils from Nigerian and Tunisian species, but this was not the case for the Brazilian species, which mainly contained α-cyperone (22.8%) and cyperotundone (12.1%). As for tiger nut oil from India, it rather contains α-copaene (11.4-12.1%), cyperene (8.4-11.7%), valerenal (8.7-9.8%), caryophyllene oxide (7.8-9.7%) and trans-pinocarveol (5.2-7.4%). The work of MOHAMMED and his team does not specify from which variety of Cyperus rotundus the extract was obtained, making it difficult to predict the compound potentially responsible for slowing hair regrowth.

Although these results may seem promising, several limitations must be considered before concluding the real effectiveness of tiger nut oil as a hair removal method. Firstly, it is essential to note that, in these studies, tiger nut oil was never used alone, but always in conjunction with another hair removal method, namely waxing or threading. This means that the observed reduction in hair growth could be partly attributed to the regular repetition of these hair removal methods. Indeed, these methods are believed to thin the hair and slow its regrowth over the long term, although this has not yet been rigorously proven. Furthermore, the lack of details about the formulation of the oil used and the variety of Cyperus rotundus used makes it difficult to evaluate the real effects and their application to products available on the cosmetic market.

The inclusion of a "Laser" group in the second study is intriguing, but the results suggesting that tiger nut oil has an efficacy comparable to Alexandrite laser hair removal should be interpreted with caution. The laser is a technique widely validated by rigorous scientific studies and is based on a well-established mechanism of action: selective photothermolysis. On the other hand, the mode of action of tiger nut oil on hair regrowth is still poorly understood and requires further investigation. Finally, it should be noted that the persistence of effects after discontinuing the use of tiger nut oil has not been evaluated. A short-term decrease in hair density does not guarantee a lasting hair removal effect, unlike methods such as laser or electrolysis, which directly target the destruction of hair follicles.

Based on current knowledge, tiger nut oil cannot be considered a standalone hair removal method. However, its use in conjunction with a proven technique could be beneficial, particularly for its well-documented anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.