Tea tree essential oil to fade the marks left by spots?

Unlike scars, acne marks can spontaneously disappear after a few weeks or even a few months. Depending on the "colour" they take on and the underlying biological mechanism that causes their formation, they are classified into two categories:

• The pigmented (brown) spots

  This refers toflat brown to black spots, depending on skin colour, that occur following a skin lesion or inflammation. Thispost-inflammatory hyperpigmentationis due to anexcessive production ofmelanin, a pigment present in the skin whose main function is to protect skin cells from UV rays. Indeed, during inflammation, pro-inflammatory cytokines will stimulate the activity of melanocytes, cells that produce melanin. This type of marking is more common in mixed to dark phototypes.

• The spots erythematous (red)

  These pink to red marks are caused by the dilation of superficial skin vessels and are more visible on fair skin: they are also known as post-inflammatory erythematous marks.

  
  

The essential oil of tea tree is extracted by hydrodistillation from the leaves of the Tea tree, also known as tea tree or alternifolia melaleuca, a shrub native to New Caledonia and Madagascar, but the main producing country today is Australia. It is recognised for its strong anti-inflammatory power.

What is its mode of action?

Research over the past decade has demonstrated that this essential oil affects a range of immune responses, both in vitro and in vivo. For instance, the water-soluble components of tea tree essential oil can inhibit the production of about 50% of certain inflammatory mediators such as Tumour Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF-alpha), Interleukin-1 (IL-1) and IL-10, and about 30% of Prostaglandin E2 after 40 hours.

A more detailed examination of the water-soluble fraction of this essential oil identified terpinen-4-ol, terpineol, and 1,8-cineole as the main components. However, among these, only terpinen-4-ol was capable of reducing the production of TNF-alpha, IL-1, IL-8, IL-10, and prostaglandin E2 by lipopolysaccharide-activated monocytes. Furthermore, studies have also shown that terpinen-4-ol, but not 1,8-cineole or terpineol, modulates vasodilation and plasma extravasation associated with inflammation induced by the release of histamine in humans.

Several studies have proven that this essential oil, when applied topically, will act on patches, alleviate itching and then redness. It is therefore recommended for certain skin conditions such aseczema or rosacea.

Regarding the effectiveness of this essential oil against acne marks, to date, few studies have demonstrated this action. In fact, the studies conducted on this subject involve formulas based on tea tree essential oil added to other ingredients.

For instance, researcher MAZZARELLO and his team have demonstrated that a cream containing 3% tea tree essential oil, 20% propolis, and 10% aloe vera is more effective in reducing acne and erythematous scars than a synthetic preparation based on erythromycin, a commonly used antibacterial antibiotic in acne treatment. It is also worth mentioning another study conducted in 2013, where researchers examined the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects of a blend composed of 3% tea tree essential oil, 2% lavender essential oil, and 95% jojoba vegetable oil. The total number of inflammatory lesions was significantly reduced in the subjects treated after 4 weeks.

However, these studies do not allow us to judge the "anti-mark" effect of tea tree essential oil alone.

In all instances, the use of tea tree essential oil is highly effective in reducing acne flare-ups, which helps to lessen their severity and thus the risk of scarring.

Furthermore, a recent study from 2023 defines this essential oil as an effective natural ingredient for reducing post-inflammatory acne marks and promoting healing.

• SHIN S. & al. Antimicrobial and enhancement effects of tea tree and lavender oils on acne lesions. Journal of Convergence for Information Technology (2013).

• Thesis by Mr. NIEL - "Treatment of Acne through Phytotherapy and Aromatherapy" (2016).

• ÇALISKAN K. U. & et al. Tea tree oil and its application in aromatherapy. Current Perspectives on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants (2018).

• SOTGIU M. A. & co. Treatment of acne with a combination of propolis, tea tree oil, and Aloe vera compared to erythromycin cream: Two double-blind studies. Clinical Pharmacology: Progress and Applications (2018).

• WALASEK-JANUSZ M. & co. Essential oils in the treatment of various types of acne - a review. Plants (2023).