Camellia Oil: Is it Comedogenic?

The camellia, which finds its roots in Asia, specifically in China, is a shrub that stands out for its large fragrant white flowers and its dense green leaves. When its seeds are subjected to pressure, they produce a vegetable oil known as "tea tree oil", not to be confused with tea tree essential oil.

It presents itself as a fluid, oily liquid of a yellow hue. The scent of camellia oil is rather neutral, although for some, it subtly hints at the fragrance of hazelnut. Its composition includes various fatty acids, and it is particularly recognised for its high content of oleic acid, as well as its presence of omega-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids.

These flowers have been utilised for many generations, whether in Japan, Korea or China, and are valued for their virtues on skin ageing. This importance has increased to such an extent that the camellia has now become a symbol of rebirth and eternal youth. This oil also has benefits for the hair. Acting as a nourishing agent, it envelops each hair to protect it from external aggressions, thus reducing the risks of split ends and grey hair.

An oil is deemed comedogenic when its application on the skin leads to the blockage of pores and the creation of an "occlusive" layer. This process disrupts the natural elimination of sebum, thereby contributing to the formation of comedones, the skin blemishes from which the term "comedogenic" originates. If you have acne-prone skin, the use of a comedogenic ingredient could potentially exacerbate this skin condition.

The comedogenicity of an ingredient is assessed according to a scale of 0 to 5 to determine its level of occlusion. A score of 0 indicates a lack of comedogenicity, while a score of 5 signals a high probability of causing comedones. Generally, it is recommended to not exceed a comedogenicity index of 2 for oily skin, which is often prone to blemishes.

The classification of an ingredient's comedogenicity is determined by examining various criteria, such as its sensitivity to oxidation and its ability to penetrate the skin. Oils that penetrate quickly, often referred to as "dry", are primarily composed of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, while richer oils, less easily absorbed by the skin, tend to contain omega-9 fatty acids. Regarding sensitivity to oxidation, as a general rule, the more double bonds a fatty acid has, the higher its tendency to oxidise rapidly.

Note: Just because an ingredient is said to be comedogenic, it doesn't necessarily mean that the product containing it is. This primarily depends on the concentration at which it is present in the product.

With a comedogenicity index of 0, camellia oil is non-comedogenic.To date, there are no known contraindications to the use of camellia oil. Light and non-greasy, it is nourishing, softening, and protective for the skin. This oil is ideal for dry, sensitive, mature or oily skin.

As the freshness of the oil plays a role in determining its comedogenicity index, it is essential to use fresh camellia oil. After opening, do not keep the oil for more than six months and store it in a light-protected location in a tightly sealed bottle.

• DINARDO J. & al. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).