Are there any risks associated with the use of panthenol in cosmetics?

Found under the INCI name "Panthenol" in cosmetic care, the panthenol is an active ingredient frequently used in formulation. It is one of the precursors of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), a major constituent of coenzyme A, which plays a key role in the cell and tissue repair mechanism. The panthenol is highly valued for its moisturising, soothing and healing virtues, and is often considered the ally of sensitive skin. Suitable for pregnant women, it is capable of reducing skin irritations, tingling sensations and redness.

Panthenol is an active ingredient that is generally very well tolerated.

However, the literature does echo a few rare cases of allergy. A review recently compiled all the patch tests that were carried out between 2009 and 2017 at the Department of Dermatology of the University Hospital of Coimbra and described certain reactions to formulations containing 5% panthenol. Indeed, while the concentration of this active ingredient is not subject to a restriction by the regulation 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and the Council, it is generally found at rates between 0.5 and 5% in skincare products. This is why the majority of tolerance tests carried out with this ingredient are done with a concentration of 5%. Among the 2171 patients tested, 26 (1.2%) reacted to dexpanthenol. It should be noted that most of these were individuals with sensitive skin and suffering from chronic eczema (88.5%, n = 23).

Furthermore, the Expert Group on Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has recently concluded that panthenol used in cosmetics is safe and has a very good skin tolerance. For the vast majority of people, it is neither irritating nor sensitising, as demonstrated by the results of the patch tests below.