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Soins à l'allantoïne.

Allantoin-based Cosmetics

Allantoin is a nitrogenous chemical compound found in many botanical extracts, particularly in comfrey, but also in amniotic fluid and the urine of mammals, or in the mucus of snails. Used in cosmetology, manufacturers employ it to reduce skin irritations and sensitivity. Let's discover in which types of care products allantoin can be found.

Summary
Published January 29, 2024, by Manon, Head of Scientific Communication — 5 min read

What is Allantoin?

Whether of plant, animal, or synthetic origin, theallantoin comes in the form of an odourless white powder. Suitable for all skin types, especially if they are sensitive, irritated, damaged and sun-damaged, this active ingredient is often favoured in skincare for its numerous benefits.

  • Healing : Allantoin modulates the inflammatory response of the healing process, potentially inhibiting the chemotaxis of inflammatory cells at the wound site. Studies have also suggested that it plays a role in fibroblastic proliferation and the synthesis of extracellular matrix, a major element in the structure and organisation of skin tissues during healing.

  • Anti-inflammatory: Allantoin has the ability to inhibit COX-2, a cyclooxygenase that contributes to the production of prostaglandins, which in turn are responsible for some of the symptoms of inflammation. It also interferes with the activation of NF-κB, a protein involved in the immune response at the level of p65 transactivation. These properties are beneficial for soothing the skin.

  • Keratolytics: Allantoin removes corneocytes by loosening the intercellular cement or desmosomes (protein bridges), which maintain the adhesion of corneocytes to each other, thus promoting the elimination of dead cells.

  • Moisturiser: Allantoin is a water-soluble humectant ingredient that helps to increase the water content of cells by combating transepidermal water loss.

  • Stimulation of collagen production: Allantoin is capable of indirectly acting on the stimulation of fibroblasts to promote the production of collagen, a protein that guarantees firmness and elasticity.

Allantoin: In which skincare products is it used?

The amphoteric nature of allantoin gives it the ability to be combined with various chemical compounds to form salts and complexes. This allows it to be used in numerous cosmetic products and to possess benefits for the skin. Whether for the skin of the face, body or even for the hair, allantoin finds its place in different types of care.

  • Haircare treatments.

    Allantoin is found in shampoos, conditioners, and masks. Its keratolytic properties give it the ability to promote cell renewal, remove dead cells from the scalp surface, and prevent pore blockage. Thus, the use of allantoin in these types of treatments could help reduce inflammation and soothe the scalp. It can be particularly useful for individuals suffering from dandruff or even scalp crust.

  • Preventive care to combat the signs of skin ageing.

    As we age, collagen production decreases, promoting the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines. Thanks to its fibroblast-stimulating properties, allantoin is capable of compensating for the decrease in collagen and combating the signs of skin ageing.

  • Care for dry and sensitive skin.

    Thanks to its moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties, allantoin is capable of soothing dry skin or skin prone to inflammation. It can be found in creams but also in serums, shower gels, lotions or make-up removers. As it is not irritating, it is also included in the composition of baby care products such as sunscreen, shampoo, washing gel and lotion.

  • Anti-blemish treatments.

    Allantoin possesses keratolytic properties that promote cellular regeneration, and anti-inflammatory properties that make it an interesting active ingredient in anti-blemish treatments, whether in the form of a serum or cream.

  • Lip care.

    Allantoin is also used in combination with vegetable oils in certain lip balms to take advantage of its soothing and moisturising properties. Thus, your lips can regain softness and hydration.

  • After-sun care.

    Thanks to its healing and anti-inflammatory properties, allantoin is a favoured active ingredient in after-sun products. It promotes cellular regeneration and combats irritations and mild sunburn.

Sources

  • IGILE G. O. & al. Rapid method for the identification and quantification of allantoin in body creams and lotions for regulatory activities. International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences (2014).

  • SAVIĆ V. L. & al. Comparative study of the biological activity of allantoin and aqueous extract of the comfrey root. Phytotherapy Research (2015).

  • DINICA R. M. & al. Allantoin from valuable romanian animal and plant sources with promising anti-inflammatory activity as a nutricosmetic ingredient. Sustainability (2021).

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