All about the cosmetic composition of a two-phase makeup remover.

The biphasic lotions are cosmetic products used for removing makeup from the skin. They are highly valued as they are particularly effective in removing water-resistant or long-lasting makeup. Biphasic makeup removers combine the benefits of both micellar waters and makeup removing oils.

Indeed, unlike a cleansing oil, a biphasic lotion leaves no oily residue on the skin after application and does not have the sometimes drying effect of a micellar water. It is therefore suitable for both people with dry skin and those whose skin tends to be oily. Biphasic lotions are also suitable for sensitive skin, as they are very gentle.

The effectiveness of biphasic makeup removers stems from the fact that they are composed of two separate phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, each containing specific ingredients.

• In the aqueous phase.

  Denser than the oily phase, the aqueous phase forms the lower phase of a biphasic lotion. It is typically based onhydrosol. Less concentrated than essential oils, hydrosols are gentle ingredients that are very well tolerated by the skin. Among the most commonly used hydrosols to formulate a biphasic makeup remover, we find those of orange blossom (INCI: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Water), Damask rose (INCI: Rosa Damascena Flower Water), lavender (INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water) and cornflower (INCI: Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water).

  This can be supplemented with actives such as vitamins, amino acids or minerals. These allow for an additional property to be added to the cleanser, making it more hydrating or soothing. Finally, it is in this phase that we find the preservatives, important molecules in a cosmetic product, as they help to prevent microbial contamination and extend the product's shelf life. Preservatives are preferably added in the aqueous phase, as water is a naturally more conducive environment for the growth of fungi, bacteria, moulds...

• In the oily phase.

  The majority of the oily phase is made up ofvegetable oils, which are rich in fatty acids. Vegetable oils have beneficial properties for this type of skincare because their texture allows them to gently remove makeup without damaging the skin.

  Biphasic makeup removers often contain several different vegetable oils, such as those of jojoba (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), ofsweet almond (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), of apricot kernels (INCI: Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil) or ofavocado (INCI: Persea Gratissima Oil).

  These vegetable oils have skin-softening properties and act as natural thickeners. To enhance their effect, silicones or other emollients are sometimes added to the oily phase of biphasic makeup removers, such as isopropyl myristate or caprylic/capric triglyceride.