As the eighth most common disease (affecting approximately 9.4% of the global population), acne is one of the most frequently observed skin conditions in human dermatology, evolving in flare-ups. Associated with discomfort, permanent skin scarring, and negative self-perception and self-esteem, it is characterised by a mixed eruption of inflammatory skin lesions (papules, pustules, nodules and cysts) and non-inflammatory/retentional lesions due to hyperkeratinisation (open and closed comedones), primarily affecting the face, back and chest. Although acne is primarily a disorder of adolescence, current research indicates that the prevalence of acne in adults, particularly women, is on the rise.
It is well known that acne is a multifactorial disease: the accumulation of acne-causing strains of Cutibacterium acnes at the level of the pilosebaceous unit, the increase in sebum production (hyperseborrhoea) and the alteration of its consistency (dyseborrhoea), defective keratinisation and clogging of hair follicles, and inflammation of the sebaceous glands are elements commonly cited in the pathophysiology of acne. To date, guidelines recommend a combination of ingredients and conventional treatments (topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, oral antibiotics, isotretinoin, etc.) aimed at targeting the different stages of pathogenesis by acting through independent mechanisms.
However, most available acne treatments induce potential side effects (drying, itching, burning, etc.), not to mention the risk of antibiotic resistance which remains a limitation. Indeed, these effects can lead to a premature discontinuation of the treatment by the patient. This is why over the last decade, the growing interest in natural ingredients derived from plants as an alternative or adjunct to conventional treatments has led to the discovery and development of new therapies that offer good efficacy with a minimal risk of side effects.