Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3: Can it be combined with other ingredients?

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide composed of a chain of four amino acids. This active ingredient is a synthetic compound used in the formulation of various cosmetic products. The acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is primarily used in hair applications to prevent and limit hair loss. This peptide works by stimulating the synthesis of certain extracellular matrix proteins such as type III collagen and laminin, which ensures a better anchoring to hair fibres.

Indeed, studies have highlighted that there is a link between the synthesis of extracellular matrix compounds and the size of hair follicles, the small epidermal pockets at the base of hair fibres. The application of acetyl tetrapeptide-3 to the hair has the effect ofincreasing the size of hair follicles, which ensures better hair anchorage and thus reduces the risk of hair loss.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 and red clover extract is a recognised combination for combating alopecia. Indeed, thanks to the biochanin A isoflavone it contains, red clover extract complements the beneficial action of acetyl tetrapeptide-3 on the hair by inhibiting dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This androgen hormone intensifies the activity of interleukin-6 (IL-6), cytokines that accelerate the transition between the growth and rest phases of hair. DHT thus causes hair follicles to enter the telogen phase, or hair shedding phase, more quickly. The use of red clover extract helps to combat this phenomenon.

Several studies have explored the benefits of the combination of acetyl tetrapeptide-3 and red clover extract on alopecia and have shown that this combination can significantly reduce hair loss. One such study recently involved thirty volunteers suffering from alopecia. Over a four-month period, the researchers asked them to apply a daily serum containing acetyl tetrapeptide-3 and red clover extract to their scalp. At the end of this period, the ratio of hairs in the anagen phase, or growth phase, to the number of hairs in the telogen phase, or shedding phase, had increased by 46%.

It is also possible to isolate biochanin A, the active ingredient of red clover extract, from the plant and directly combine it with acetyl tetrapeptide-3. This combination is equally intriguing and has demonstrated its effectiveness in several research studies. It has been particularly highlighted that the topical application of a combination ofacetyl tetrapeptide-3, biochanin A and ginseng extract has a similar effectiveness to that of minoxidil, a drug commonly used to treat alopecia. Moreover, unlike drug treatments which can sometimes cause scalp irritation, the studied combination is gentle and suitable for sensitive scalps.

• HOCQUAUX M. & al. A new strategy to modulate alopecia using a combination of two specific and unique ingredients. Journal of cosmetic science (2013).

• PANCHAPRATEEP R. & al. An herbal extract combination (biochanin A, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, and ginseng extracts) versus 3% minoxidil solution for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: A 24-week, prospective, randomized, triple-blind, controlled trial. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology (2020).