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What are the effects of provitamin B5 on eyelashes?

Found in many mascaras and eyelash care products, provitamin B5 is an active ingredient often attributed with strengthening properties, even the ability to promote eyelash growth. But what is the reality? Here is our analysis.

Summary
Published June 4, 2024, updated on June 4, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 3 min read

Provitamin B5: benefits for eyelashes?

Essential for protecting the eyes, eyelashes fend off dust, pollution particles and other impurities that attempt to make their way to the eye. However, this is not their only role: the eyelashes also contribute to facial aesthetics. Indeed, when they are thick and plentiful, they can intensify a gaze and make it more attractive. Eyelashes are, however, very delicate. Located 2 millimetres beneath the skin of the eyelids, they can easily fall out and are sensitive to UV rays, harsh products and temperature changes. Taking into account their tendency to shorten and thin with age, it becomes clear why it's important to provide them with appropriate care to keep them healthy for as long as possible.

Currently, scientific literature does not mention any effect of provitamin B5 on eyelashes.

However, even though there are no studies on the benefits of provitamin B5, also known as panthenol, on eyelashes, some evidence suggests that this active ingredient could help care for them. Indeed, it has been shown that provitamin B5 has moisturising properties when applied to hair and that it can protect keratin , which makes up the fibres. If this effect has been demonstrated when using a panthenol-based conditioner, it can be assumed that it could be replicated on eyelashes, whose structure is similar to that of hair. Panthenol could thus promote the achievement of beautiful, thick and voluminous eyelashes.

Furthermore, it is possible that provitamin B5 may promote eyelash growth. Indeed, studies in vitro have shown that this active ingredient could stimulate the action of alkaline phosphatase, a marker of the anagen phase. This is the first phase of the hair cycle, namely the growth phase. Characterised by intense metabolic activity at the bulb level, it results in the formation of keratin, the major constituent of hair and fur. In addition, panthenol would act by reducing the expression of TGF-β1 mRNA, a growth factor that more rapidly induces hair follicles into the catagen, or resting phase. To confirm the ability of provitamin B5 to accelerate eyelash growth, it would be interesting for clinical trials to be conducted.

Sources

  • VELASCO M. V. & co. Protective impact of conditioning agents on hair subjected to oxidative hair dye. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

  • LEE S. & al. Dexpanthenol Enhances Cell Proliferation by Inhibiting Cell Senescence and Apoptosis in Cultured Human Hair Follicle Cells. Current Topics in Molecular Biology (2021).

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