Composition biochimique du beurre de karité.

The biochemical composition of shea butter.

Shea butter is a natural ingredient commonly found in skincare formulations. Thanks to its biochemical composition, its use offers numerous benefits for the skin and hair. Discover what shea butter is made of.

Shea butter, in a nutshell.

Shea butter is a natural fat obtained from the fruit of the shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii), which belongs to the Sapotaceae family. This wild tree begins to produce fruit after 20 years and reaches its maximum production capacity after 50 years.

The fruits are harvested in the African bush exclusively by women between May and August. Once the fruit is brought home, the women process it in several stages to obtain shea nuts: the fruit is stripped of its flesh, then the nuts are boiled, sun-dried and shelled. The obtained almonds are again sun-dried before being transformed into butter.

Thus, "women's gold" constitutes an additional source of income for millions of women in Burkina Faso.

The shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) used in our products is sourced from fruits harvested in Burkina Faso. The refining process is then carried out in Europe, following methods approved by organic certifications.

In its raw state, shea butter appears as a solid butter with a waxy appearance. When exposed to room temperature, it melts and its texture becomes oily. Shea butter is light yellow to beige in colour and it emits a slight sweet almond scent.

Distribution of fatty acids (in %) in the shea butter used in our skincare products.

Here are the main fatty acids present in shea butter.

  • 40 to 50% oleic acid or omega-9.

    This monounsaturated fatty acid is a lipid that forms part of the composition of sebum, a substance naturally secreted by the body to counteract the dryness of the skin and hair. It stimulates the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Sweet almond vegetable oil is thusrelipidating, it is recommended for the care ofdry and dehydrated skin and hair.

  • 36 to 50% of stearic acid.

    The National Library of Medicine (NLM) defines stearic acid as a long-chain saturated fatty acid. The long chain is composed of 18 carbon atoms. In skincare, stearic acid is recognised for its emollient, nourishing, and protective (film-forming) properties.

  • 4 to 8% of linoleic acid oromega-6.

    This category of fatty acids is referred to asessential, because they are not synthesised by the body. Omega-6 fatty acids contribute to the process of cellular renewal. When applied topically, they therefore help to combat signs of ageing and promote healing. They also soothe inflammatory reactions and are beneficial for sensitive skin, suffering from tightness and irritation.

  • 3 to 8% of palmitic acid.

    Saturated fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, possess emollient properties, which means they promote hydration of skin and hair cells. They thus provide suppleness and softness.

The unsaponifiable fraction of shea butter.

The unsaponifiable content is at a minimum of 4%. This remarkable content of unsaponifiables (tocopherols, phytosterols, triterpenes, kariten...) endows it with great penetration properties. It serves as a natural thickener for oil phases.

  • Tocopherols are natural antioxidants known for their action against cellular oxidation. Thanks to their free radical scavenging properties, Vitamin E protects the skin from environmental aggressors, such as UV rays and chemical pollution. Tocopherols are reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties and to reduce premature skin ageing.

  • Phytosterols and triterpenes (cinnamic acid, butyrospermol, lupeol, alpha and beta-amyrin) possess UV protection properties, making shea butter a good ingredient to enhance the SPF of sun care products.

  • Sterols also have an anti-inflammatory effect by acting as free radical scavengers, much like tocopherols. They also enhance smoothness, increase hydration and the elasticity of the skin.

In which Typology treatments can one find shea butter?

The nourishing lip balm with 9 ingredients has been designed solely from essential ingredients for its function. Shea butter helps to protect the lips from skin dryness.

Ournourishing face creambased on hyaluronic acid also contains shea butter. Thanks to its content of moisturising and lipid-replenishing active ingredients, this skincare product provides suppleness to the skin. Moreover, it reduces feelings of tightness. It is suitable for normal, combination and dry skin types.

You can also find this vegetable butter in the firming night mask based on prickly pear oil, a nourishing balm to nourish and regenerate weakened skin, and firm up the tissues.

The nourishing body cream also contains shea butter alongside squalane and plum oil to restore the skin's lipid barrier, reduce feelings of tightness, and protect the skin from external aggressions.

Shea butter is also present in the gel-in-oil stretch marks
with baobab oil to prevent and visibly reduce the appearance of stretch marks, while providing flexibility and elasticity to the skin.

Finally, our two solid cleansing treatments cold saponified (SAF) 100% natural are enriched with shea butter.

Sources:

  • YAMEOGO F. & al. The benefits of shea butter for rural populations, communities and countries. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (2005).

  • Pharmacy thesis by Marie AMOUGOU. Study of the moisturising effect of shea butter and Ergan oil (2009).

  • POBEDA M. The benefits of vegetable oils: Learning to know and use them for your health and beauty. Paperback (2011).

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