Identity Profile: Hydro-alcoholic extract of yellow gentian

Commonly known as: Gentiana Lutea Root Extract (INCI), also known as great yellow gentian, European quinine, queen of the summer pastures, official gentian, poor man's quinine, get-up-and-walk, jouvansanne, jansonna, Alpine banana, native quinine.

Botanical name: Gentiana lutea L.

Extraction process: Hydro-alcoholic extraction of yellow gentian roots sourced from organic farming, followed by purification through column chromatography.

Family: Gentianaceae.

Extracted part of the plant: Roots/rhizomes.

Cultivation area, origin: Originating from the mountainous regions of southern and central Europe.

Blooming: Between May and October.

Origin, provenance: Massif Central (France).

Phytochemical composition: Monoterpenic secoiridoids (gentiopicroside, gentiopicrin, amarogentin, swertiamarin); xanthones (gentisin, isogentisin, gentioside); flavonoids; phytosterols; sugars.

Sensory properties: Appearance: Liquid; Colour: Amber to brown; Odour: Characteristic.

Physical properties: Soluble in water, alcohol (with pH<6) and glycols; Insoluble in oily systems; Recommended usage pH: 4 - 8; Recommended dosage: 0.5%

Concerns: Angiogenic, anti-glycation, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, draining, lifting, photoprotective, firming.

Effect: All skin types, particularly those prone to redness and mature skin; Recommended for the prevention of skin ageing, in cases of dark circles and under-eye bags.

Details

Properties

Anti-inflammatory: Diminish redness and the skin's inflammatory response by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators and suppressing angiogenesis;
Antioxidant: Restricting oxidative stress and oxidation reactions involved in premature skin ageing and the formation of glycation end products (AGE) by upregulating the expression of genes coding for antioxidant enzymes;
Draining: Reducing the volume of oedemas by limiting fluid retention through the activation of lymphatic vessels;
Lifting: Smoothing and plumping the skin by strengthening the structure of the dermis and limiting the deterioration of the extracellular matrix through the stimulation of collagen I synthesis by dermal fibroblasts;
Firming: Limiting the loss of elasticity by protecting the network of elastic fibres from degradation.

Usage

Facial Care (eye contour treatments, micellar waters, cleansing milks, moisturising creams);
Haircare (shampoos) ;
Makeups (foundations).

Method of Preservation

Store in a dry place, protected from light and moisture, at room temperature between 15°C and 25°C.

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

The extract of yellow gentian roots appears to be safe when applied topically in small amounts, and well tolerated by all skin types.

Originating from Southern Europe and Asia Minor, the Yellow Gentian is a plant from the Gentianaceae family. It grows in most European mountains, notably in the Alps, the French Massif Central, and the Pyrenees. Furthermore, it can live up to 50 - 60 years, but takes around 10 years to bloom for the first time. A symbol of the Auvergne region, the harvesting of Yellow Gentian, strictly regulated to protect the species, is sustainably carried out by trained gentian harvesters. The name of the gentian comes from the ancient Illyrian king Gentius, who discovered that this plant could be used as a digestive tonic. Although its applications are numerous (cosmetics, flavouring production, pharmacy, etc.), it is primarily used in aperitif liqueurs, consumed for several centuries, to which it imparts its bitterness. It is also traditionally used to stimulate the appetite, aid digestion, and alleviate minor digestive and gastrointestinal issues (bloating and flatulence). Despite its large yellow trumpet-shaped flowers, it is the roots that are utilised by industries due to their high content of bitter glucosides (2 - 8%).