Hyaluronic Acid for lip care?

The skin on the lips is very thin, about 5 times thinner than the rest of the face, making it extremely sensitive. Moreover, it is highly prone to dehydration due to the minuscule number of sebaceous glands it houses, the organs that synthesise sebum. It's also worth noting that sweat glands, responsible for sweat production, are completely absent from the lips. Sweat and sebum are key components of the hydrolipidic film, which is fragile on the lips, explaining why they are often subject to skin dryness and chapping.

Primarily known for its hydrating potential, hyaluronic acid can be used on various parts of the body, including the lips. Capable of retaining up to 1000 times its weight in water, this molecule is present in many lip care products and helps to strengthen the hydrolipidic film of this area. By limiting water loss, hyaluronic acid provides lips with protection and hydration, and gives them softness. These properties have been highlighted in several studies examining the effects of lip balms formulated with hyaluronic acid.

One can notably mention the recent study conducted by FISHER with 20 volunteers over 7 days. This study observed the action of a skincare product containing hyaluronic acid, hydrolysed collagen, aloe vera gel, and sweet almond oil. 60 mg of the product was applied to each person's lips twice a day. After a week, the hydration of the stratum corneum of the participants increased by an average of 24%. The elasticity of the lips also increased, by about 25.6%. Finally, a certain plumping effect was observed, with the surface of the lips increasing by an average of 1.3%. However, it is difficult to precisely quantify the influence of hyaluronic acid, as it was incorporated into a formulation containing hydrating and nourishing ingredients.

Product recommendations?

You can find hyaluronic acid in our repairing lip mask . Also enriched with ceramides, this treatment benefits the lips by forming a protective film that limits water evaporation and strengthens the skin barrier. There are two ways to use this mask: it can be applied for about fifteen minutes before rinsing, or in a thick layer all night.

Hyaluronic acid can be injected into the lips for several purposes: to redefine the contour and the curl of the lips, to fill in wrinkles and fine lines, and/or to add volume by plumping. These injections are not part of the cosmetic sphere and belong to the field of aesthetic medicine. We advise you to be cautious and to thoroughly inform yourself before taking the plunge because, in addition to causing a change in your anatomy, hyaluronic acid injections can be accompanied by side effects. Although rare, these can range from simple bruising to bacterial infections and inflammations. Several studies have looked into the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid injections. The results of four of these are compiled in the table below.

Please note that certain precautions must be taken regarding hyaluronic acid injections. Thus, exposure to the sun and consumption of alcoholic beverages are discouraged in the days before and after the session. Moreover, hyaluronic acid injections are not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, nor for people suffering from autoimmune diseases, taking anticoagulants, or having a skin infection. Finally, the results are not permanent. Hyaluronic acid being a biodegradable molecule, the lips usually return to their initial shape 6 to 24 months after the injections.

• GLAVAS I. P. & co. Non-animal derived stabilised hyaluronic acid for lip enhancement and facial wrinkle removal. Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery (2004).

• MASSON F. Hyaluronic Acid and Skin Hydration. Annals of Dermatology and Venereology (2010).

• MURPHY D. & al. Juvéderm(®) Volbella™ in the perioral area: a 12-month prospective, multicenter, open-label study. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology (2012).

• BULLEY B. & al. A randomised, evaluator-blinded, controlled study of the effectiveness and safety of small particle hyaluronic acid plus lidocaine for lip augmentation and perioral wrinkles. Dermatologic Surgery (2015).

• MURPHY D. & al. Safety and Efficacy of VYC-15L, a Hyaluronic Acid Filler for Lip and Perioral Augmentation: One-Year Outcomes From a Randomised, Controlled Trial. Dermatologic Surgery (2017).

• MAJDIC N. & al. Efficacy and safety of hyaluronic acid fillers in augmenting overall lip volume: A systematic review of clinical studies. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

• GOFARA T. Z. & al. Long-Lasting Moisturising Herbal Lip Balm with Honey, Hyaluronic Acid, and SPF. UI Proceedings on Science and Technology (2019).

• FISHER N. An open observational trial of a novel peptide and hyaluronic acid-based lip cosmetic. Journal of Plastic and Pathology Dermatology (2020).